Yes I Can Garden: May 2010

Monday, May 31, 2010

Rooftop Gardens

Rooftop gardens make excellent retreats, and can benefit individuals living in apartments or condominiums in the city. If you are lucky enough to have great city views, then a rooftop garden can compliment them, giving residents a nice place to relax, read, or socialize, while enjoying the view of the city or the surrounding landscape. For those who have a nearby structure they want to avoid looking at, or have neighbours in adjacent office buildings or apartment buildings who can stare right into the space, it is easy to construct a screen or trellis to partially block their line of vision. Likewise, if your roof can support it, you can plant trees in large barrels or pots, which can act as windbreaks as well as obscure the view into—or out of—the garden. Those who live in houses or townhouses in the city or in suburban areas use trees in exactly the same way—they can be placed very deliberately to obscure the view from a neighbour’s yard or windows.

Check with the landlord, board of directors, or owner, before beginning any work on the project. By adding structures that increase the height of the building, you may face problems from the neighbours and be breaking city bylaws. Make sure to research this before adding any permanent structures to the roof. Perhaps the most important thing to do is to consult with an expert about weight loads for the roof—make sure the expert (engineer or architect) is certified, and a member in good standing with his or her professional organization. If you plan on creating a large-scale rooftop garden, with topsoil as well as lawn, trees and features such as fountains, then the planning stage will be more involved. You will need a great deal of topsoil to make sure that root systems can anchor the larger trees and shrubs, and so that trees will not be uprooted by the wind.

In most rooftop gardens, however, you will find large containers filled with trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals. Most condominiums will already have some sort of budget set up for landscaping. See if this can be expanded to include expenses for the garden, or else donations (either of goods or cash) can be collected for items such as patio furniture, tables, seating such as benches, new plants and containers, and upkeep.

Whether you are undertaking a full-scale garden project or a smaller rooftop garden, it is crucial to check that waterproofing and drainage are adequate so that no problems occur with water infiltration in the building, particularly in the rooms directly below the rooftop garden. Because rooftop gardens are exposed to the elements (and to more wind than the typical garden may be), it is important to keep sun and wind exposure in mind when you are planning and setting up your rooftop garden. Consider a mixture of evergreens, deciduous trees, climbing plants with trellises, flowering plants, and shrubs. Make sure that the routine for care and maintenance of the rooftop garden is well planned as well, whether this involves a gardening committee, a private company, or individuals hired to come and work in the garden on a regular basis.

Friday, May 28, 2010

Nature Projects from the Garden—Plaster Casts of Animal Tracks

This project has to be carried out with adult supervision, since plaster of Paris comes in powder form—try to avoid inhaling the powder by pouring slowly and carefully, and by having an adult stir and handle the materials. To set up for making the cast, take some thick cardboard or plastic about four or five inches wide, and use paper clips or notches to attach the ends together. Put the plastic or cardboard (now attached and in the form of a closed circle) around the print—muddy or sandy areas work best. Note that you can cast any tracks at all you find in the garden—whether they are from deer, rabbits, dogs, or even human feet! The clearest tracks will make the best casts, so choose the footprint you can see most clearly.

Following the directions for proportions of plaster to water, begin by placing the water in a large bucket. Add the plaster of Paris, and stir well with an inexpensive tool such as a wooden spoon. Next, you can pour the plaster into the mould, and then wait for it to set. This project can also be done in the snow—although it may be a little more tricky. You may need to sprinkle dry powder on the tracks, or else mist the tracks slightly before adding the plaster—and if it is really cold out and the cast freezes, you may need to pick the whole thing up and bring it inside! Either way, make sure to first remove any small twigs, seeds, or other items that can easily picked up without altering the print.

Once the plaster has dried, dig it up carefully—if you have used plastic, you can reuse this again later. Leave it for a few days to harden completely, and then clean off the excess soil (if you have done a summer casting). Use an old toothbrush or nailbrush to get into all the cracks and crevices, to make sure your cast is as detailed as possible. If you would like, you can paint on or around the tracks to highlight them.

Children may enjoy collecting the casts they have made. You may want to keep a log of dates (summer 2009, for example) and locations (backyard, park, community garden, forest trail, and so on), along with information identifying the animals that left the tracks. You can help children access information to help them identify animal tracks using the local library, field guides, or an internet search. This kind of collection can be fun to add to each year—and it can be paired with notebooks that children can keep to note their observations about insects, animal life, and changes in the garden throughout the seasons.

Nature Projects From the Garden for the Young or Young at Heart

If you are like me, you will enjoy some of these projects just as much as the kids will.

Leaf Rubbings

Using wax crayons and smooth white paper, lightly rub the crayons over a leaf that you have removed and placed on a flat surface such as a table or clipboard. Rubbings can also be made from bark. Simply hold the paper against the trunk of the tree; kids will enjoy seeing the distinct patterns made by each type of leaf or bark.

Keeping Insects
Many children will enjoy making a small temporary home for insects, whether they choose to keep caterpillars, slugs, snails, ladybugs, or other insects they find in the garden. Toy stores or stores stocking educational products will likely have kits for sale. If you make a miniature insectarium on your own, make sure that you have adequate ventilation as well as appropriate sources of food for the insects. Don’t place the plastic or glass container in an area with direct sunlight, where you risk overheating the contents of the container. If you want to add another component to the project, have children draw or chart the movements of the insects, or have them chart how much the insects have been eating (easier to see for some insects than others!).

Drawing Maps of the Garden
Children can help to plan and map out the layout for one garden bed, or for a vegetable patch—even for the garden as a whole. If you already have a substantially developed garden underway, then children might enjoy drawing maps on large newsprint, showing structures, heights of plants and trees, and relative distances between objects and structures in the garden.

Making a Miniature Garden
These can be as simple or as complex as you please. I take inspiration from the Gingerbread Houses we make each year—once you get going with your ideas, the options for whimsical details seem endless! To begin, take a fairly shallow container with adequate drainage. Consider some of the planter baskets sold at nurseries--some are flat and made of natural materials, which can add to the impression of having a little piece of the outdoors that you can keep in the house. Make sure that the base is stable if you plan to display it on a stand or other flat surface. If the container does not already have drainage holes, add some yourself, and then add a layer of chipped terracotta before adding potting medium. If you are giving the miniature garden as a gift, then you can use a plate underneath that features a seasonal or thematic design (musical notes for a music teacher; apples for a classroom teacher, and so on). After the base is ready, use materials from craft stores, dollar stores, and recycled materials from around the house to make miniature garden sheds, houses, birdhouses, ponds, birdbaths, and benches. Use small pebbles or glass beads to make pathways. Plant your miniature garden a few months before you plan on giving it as a gift, so that the seeds you plant will have sprouted and will already look like miniature plants. This makes a unique and memorable gift—great for teachers, coaches, friends of the family, and other gardening enthusiasts.

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Edible Flowers

On occasion I use flowers from the garden as garnishes, and I thought I would read up on edible flowers so that I could make more use of them in soups, salads, and desserts, in particular.

A few uses of edible flowers were familiar to me already. One of my cousins used to make special-occasion cakes for a living, and often used candied rose petals and candied violets in her creations. I had also seen nasturtium, chive, and lilac used in salads or with greens plated to accompany a main dish.

Precautions
Common sense and a few extra precautions are necessary when beginning to use edible flowers into your culinary repertoire. First, it is important to know that not all flowers presented as garnishes are edible, so be cautious about this when you eat out, and do not hesitate to ask if you are unsure. This is particularly important because some flowers can be poisonous or at least irritating to the digestive system (causing diarrhoea or vomiting, for example). Others can cause mild to severe allergic reactions in some people. It is best to start slowly, and use flowers in moderation. It is also advisable to eat only very small portions if you have never tried something before. If you happen to be allergic to pollens, you may react to chamomile, for example—the same goes for mustard plants, which can be highly allergenic--so blossoms from these and other potentially allergenic plants should be incorporated with caution into the diet.

Another concern is the potential for flowers to have been in contact with pesticides or other toxic chemicals. Flowers sold at florists, or flowers gathered from roadsides (that have been exposed to exhaust and potentially exposed to herbicides) are unsuitable for use. Also check that the part of the flower you are using is edible—some plants feature petals that are safe, but leaves, stamens, or seeds that contain chemicals not suitable for consumption. Plants grown organically or collected from one’s own garden are always the best bet.

Perhaps the most important precaution, though, has to do with collecting flowers from the wild. Several plants with edible flowers look very similar to poisonous plants that must never be consumed. Guides are available for those who want to be adventurous. As for me, I tend to err on the side of caution, and will stick to easily identifiable plants I can grow myself. I will be quite happy with a few nasturtiums mixed into my salads, and a few candied violets or pansies topping ice cream or pastries once in a while. Jellies and teas are also nice treats made from fresh flowers from the garden—although of course there is nothing like fresh flowers on the plate to celebrate the colours and tastes of what nature can delight us with from the garden!

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Kid-Friendly Gardening Projects

Most children love to help around the garden, and gardening with kids can be fun as well as educational. Children will get to spend time outdoors in the fresh air, and can gain a sense of confidence by maintaining the garden and by helping to plan and carry out small projects. They get to estimate, weigh, solve problems, and count—all great math skills that they will probably not even be aware they are developing! Also, they will hopefully begin to develop an appreciation of the natural world by working closely with natural materials and watching how the garden changes with the seasons—from the first buds in spring to the harvest and tasks of late summer and autumn.

Garden Maintenance
Children love to help out with all kinds of tasks, from watering to weeding. For jobs that are too big for them, see if you can find a way for them to help out with an associated task. Some jobs are for adults only—trimming and piling branches, for example, or anything involving toxic substances, sharp items or power tools. Tasks they can be assigned will depend on their age and attention span. Children might help sort or pile items, while you carry out more difficult tasks. They can help pile or move weeds or harvested vegetables or fruit (moving plants into a basket or wheelbarrow, for example). They might also simply dig around in an inconspicuous spot while an adult carries out other tasks. Older children may get quite good at weeding and other routine tasks, and may work independently on projects after you let them know what needs to get done. Make sure children know that weeding is only to be carried out with adult supervision, and that it is the entire plant (including stalk and roots) that gets pulled up—you do not want come out to the garden one afternoon and find that younger children have been “helping” by removing all the petals on your favourite flowering plants.

If you have a few extra watering cans, children can help water the garden, as well. Make sure you do not overfill the cans, since they get heavy quickly, and kids are usually stubborn about wanting to haul the watering cans around, even if they are awkward to carry. Another idea is to buy a few child-sized watering cans, instead. Children can also help rake, break up soil with a spade or hoe, and collect rocks that you need removed from the garden--larger ones can be used to make decorative designs or can be placed at the edges of garden beds. Check the dollar store or local toy store for child-sized garden tools and sand toys. Although they may be plastic and prone to breaking more easily, they are not sharp—which is probably the most important thing, since children’s safety should be your first priority.

Planting
Children can be involved in all aspects of planning and planting the garden. They can plant seeds in flats near the back door, or in pots set on the windowsill. Kids will also enjoy watching beans sprout, and watching how the roots develop; set up a lidded jar lined with moist paper towel for this project. Children can also help to plan the vegetable garden. They can accompany an adult to purchase seeds or young plants at the nursery, which they can care for in their very own garden plot. Keep the scale small so that routine tasks such as watering, weeding, and harvesting do not seem overwhelming. Children can also help deadhead and scatter seeds—make sure to give them clear instructions about where you want the seeds, as well as how to tell when a plant is ready for this!

Nature Projects
Children can also enjoy a range of art projects and basic scientific projects using materials found in the garden or the local park. These can range from bark rubbings to creating their own miniature gardens in shallow containers; from collecting and spray painting spiders’ webs to pressing flowers, classifying plants, and collecting insects. I will post a few of these ideas, in more detail, next week.

Monday, May 24, 2010

Formal Garden Designs: Parterres and Knot Gardens

The Potager Garden
The potager garden, as I mentioned in my post last week, is a formal but flexible garden design that can incorporate formal structures such as paths and hedges, as well as ornamental plants, herbs, vegetables, and flowers. It is one option for a formal herb garden, as are the following:

The Knot Garden
Another even more intricate design is the Knot Garden. This takes careful planning as well as regular maintenance to keep it looking good, since hedges are almost always part of the design, and these need to be kept neat so that the overall design is sharp and all of the lines can be seen clearly, as one approaches the garden and when one is walking within it (in the case of an open design). Usually knot gardens will feature only four or five plants, each chosen for a particular purpose. Hedges are sometimes used alone, in a series of interweaving lines that look like Celtic knots. Dense walls of branches and leaves are used to delineate the edges of pathways marked in gravel; scented plants such as lavender and sage are often featured for their visual interest (colour contrast and interesting foliage on some of the sage varieties, for example) as well as for their scent. Boxwood is very popular, as are germander, thyme, hyssop, lemon balm, and chamomile. Gardeners often choose to set plants next to each other for a contrasting foliage effect.

Parterres
Parterres are similar to the more complex knot gardens, and include pathways or areas covered in gravel, as well as densely planted herbs and shrubs in linear or undulating patterns. However, parterres are the simplified version of knot gardens, since they do without the intricate weaving featured in the former designs.

Knot gardens are best viewed from above, for full effect. Place them on the lowest level of a lawn with several terraces (but within view of the house or whatever building or viewing area is nearby), or on a flat area that can be viewed from a nearby lookout point or window. Use coloured gravel to further offset the annuals, perennials and the shrubs used in hedges. Depending on the conditions in the area where you live, you might also want to try mass plantings or accent areas featuring rhododendron, roses, or showy annuals.

Circular Gardens
Another design option for a formal design with less upkeep involved is the circular garden. Simply mark the centre and perimeter of your garden, then use gravel, brick, or other materials (such as river stones or mosaic blocks) to create evenly spaced areas radiating out from the centre of the bed. After this, you can organize the rest of the garden as you like—either setting up beds that run in concentric rings, or else in rays radiating out from the centre towards the perimeter of the space. You might also want to consider placing a small bench, gazebo (if the area is large enough), pond, sculpture, fountain, or bird bath at the centre of the garden. This will help give the garden a focal point, and add a more formal finishing touch to the overall design.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Four Additional Herbs for the Starter Garden

Cilantro
Cilantro is also easy to grow, and quite resilient to whatever slight neglect or difficult conditions you face it with. Cilantro is quite content either in sun or partial shade. We have started varying our use of parsley, and substituting cilantro instead. It is great in salads and as a garnish for any number of dishes, from pastas to soups.

Dill
Dill thrives when it is grown from seed. In fact, we have had our dill spread itself to all corners of the garden, self-seeding as it goes, and have had to remove it from where we didn’t want it to take up a permanent home, as this annual re-seeds naturally each year. On the other hand, dill does not particularly like being transplanted, so waiting for the seeds to dry and then scattering them yourself is probably still the best bet.

We adore dill with fish, and added to soups and salads. A creamy cucumber and dill dressing is just the thing for a salad of greens and fresh baby vegetables harvested from the garden on a summer day.

Mint

The main issue with mint is that you will need to enclose an area (where the roots will spread) around the perimeter of where you want to grow your mint, since the plant will spread and take over garden beds or any sparsely planted areas nearby in the yard. Mint likes a sunny location, and likes to be thoroughly soaked when it is watered. It makes a great addition to teas and desserts, and is also used in toothpastes and for a range of medicinal purposes.

Sage
Sage, for me, will forever be associated with stuffing in the Thanksgiving turkey. It is the flavour we associate with our mother’s traditional stuffing—made simply, with white bread she leaves out overnight, and apples, lard or butter, and of course ample salt, pepper, and dried sage. We love the saturated flavour and the stuffing is always one of the first of the leftovers to be eaten up, the week we begin with turkey sandwiches and end with turkey soup.

Salvia officinalis, or Garden Sage, comes in several varieties. Some of my personal favourites are tricolour and purple sage, since they add that extra ornamental element to the garden. Sage usually does best in full sun, and is best picked when leaves are still tender. Sage dries very well, and can be dried for later culinary use, or dried in bunches to be used decoratively. Fresh sage is particularly good with meats and cheeses, and in soups. We usually have several varieties of sage growing simultaneously, and enjoy bending to crush the leaves as we pass, since the scent is so delicious.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

The Potager Garden

Since we have a blank slate to work with in the backyard, I have been considering a potager garden—the sort of mixed-use vegetable garden that became popular in France four or five hundred years ago.

Potager gardens are small gardens that are functional as well as beautiful. They may contain ornamental features such as fountains, birdbaths, decorative paths, and low hedges at their perimeter, but they will also contain herbs, ornamental flowers, edible flowers and of course vegetables--often trained to climb, since this was practical in gardens where space was limited. Growing vegetables vertically also increases yield, and brings vegetables to eye-height where a few handfuls of fruit or vegetables (destined for the next snack or meal) can be trimmed and harvested easily. Working farmers as well as wealthy estate owners in fifteenth and sixteenth century France set up small potager gardens near their kitchens--where they were both functional and enjoyable aesthetically. The potager garden is a place you can enjoy tending—it is meant to be tranquil as well as productive--quite the opposite of how many of our fruits and vegetables are propagated these days!

Friends of ours have a few simple raised beds they have enclosed in rows of large rounded stones. They have pathways, ornamental flowers, and a few herbs scattered between rows of traditional garden vegetables. We will likely plant cilantro (since we use it almost daily when we have it on hand), dill (for the lovely flavour to add to soups and seafood dishes, as well as the pretty flower heads), marigolds, oregano, thyme, and sage. I like the idea of experimenting with a few edible flowers as well. Violets (Johnny-jump-ups) will be included, as will roses (the petals can be candied, or eaten in salads or as a garnish for desserts). Lavender and nasturtium are also on our list, since we are lavender fans, and often use dried lavender for tea, and enjoy lavender soaps and sachets. Nasturtiums have always been a favourite of mine, simply because they are so persistent—they (along with a bunch of day lilies) took over the barren front yard at a house where my sister lived while she was at school, and transformed the place drastically. I have eaten the flowers in salads, and I like the peppery flavour nasturtiums add to fresh greens—as well as the dash of colour they add to the plate.

What I like about the idea of the potager garden is that it is so eclectic. I can train a grape vine or climbing rose up a trellis, and add a fountain or a bird bath to the centre of the little garden; I may very well plant herbs, staked tomatoes, cucumbers, and ornamental but edible leafy greens such as Swiss chard and kale. The real joy for me in planning a potager garden is that it can be a place that I can allow to be a bit jumbled (although others may go for more formal plans). It can be beautiful—visually interesting, and full of enticing smells--as well as functioning as a kitchen garden that will provide fresh vegetables, herbs, and might even eventually feature a small fruit tree or fruit-bearing bush or two. The best thing (and the most difficult) is deciding what to include--and what will have to wait for another year.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

The Herb Garden—Four Herbs For a Starter Garden

Probably the best advice for starting a herb garden is to begin by growing the herbs you use and enjoy on a regular basis. I will begin with a few of our favourites, although surely you will have your own ideas for standard as well as less well known herbs you would like to try growing at home. Over the next few days, I will share a dozen or so of our favourites—herbs that have become staples in our garden and that we regularly plant in containers to place on the porch or indoors, as close to the kitchen as possible.

Chives
This perennial herb is very popular, since chives are easy to grow and not too fussy about soil conditions. We had a few clusters in a garden plot we once started but didn’t have time for—year after year, the chives persisted, despite our lack of attention. Chives are quite flavourful, and often you will find kids chewing on them as they wander about the yard or take part in various garden tasks. Chives can be used fresh in salads or on baked potato, or cut up and used much like spring onions would be used, in a wide variety of dishes.

Rosemary
Chefs know the incredible difference fresh (versus dried) rosemary makes to the success of a dish. Rosemary tastes great with meats, in vegetarian dishes, and even in breads or in offbeat combinations, such as with lavender or citrus fruits. It is easiest to get your rosemary plants in seedling form from a nursery. You might also ask a friend or neighbour for a cutting from their plant. Be careful when you water your rosemary plants, since you will need an even hand so that the plants develop as they should.

Thyme
Thyme is another standard in the herb garden—one my mother always had on hand. It is also a perennial, and hardy, which makes it a mainstay. Plant thyme in full sun, or make sure the spot where it is growing indoors is in full sun—and you should have nothing to worry about (and some delicious flavours to add to main meals very soon!).

Basil
Although basil is an annual, it is well worth while keeping some on hand--we even keep a potted basil plant in the kitchen, during the winter. These days, many supermarkets offer basil plants for sale. We have found that basil is a little more particular about its conditions. It needs lots of sun, and rich soil, and you should leave some time between waterings, so that the roots do not get waterlogged. On the other hand, we have also left our basil plants unattended for too long—and had no luck bringing them back to a state of good health. I have included basil in the list since it is one of our absolute favourite flavours, whether used for pasta, Thai dishes or dishes inspired by other international cuisines.

The Herb Garden--Background and Inspiration

Herb gardens vary greatly in their scope and layout. Some are part of formal gardens containing neatly organized and labelled beds. Others are a few feet wide, set in a few feet of available space in the garden or near the house or commercial building where they will be used. Still others are found in containers, on a windowsill, or on an apartment balcony or a house’s back porch.

Probably some of the first country gardens developed from herb gardens. The occupants of the house would spread dried seeds from the foods they ate along the path from the street to the front door. Meats were sometimes left quite some time before being used, so herbs and spices were crucial for improving the taste of the meals as well as (on occasion) helping to preserve the foods from spoiling. From there, more formal gardens developed. Many households—and a great number of restaurants—like to keep fresh herbs on hand to add to salads, meat dishes, vegetarian main courses, and more.

There is nothing quite like the taste of fresh herbs, freshly picked, and then added as a garnish or to a dish being prepared. It is best to add fresh herbs as close as possible to the time the food will be served--overcooking can affect flavour as well as reduce nutritional content. Even the few days or weeks that most foods take in transport from farm to supermarket will affect the taste and perhaps even the nutritional value of the foods (fruits that are picked while unripe, for example, are often shipped for long periods of time, with the assumption they will ripen en route). There is also nothing quite like nurturing a plant and then seeing it all the way from seed or seedling to the mature plant that so graciously lends itself to our culinary endeavours in the kitchen.

If children live in the household or sometimes visit, they will likely enjoy planting herbs and watching them grow. You can invite them to be part of the entire process, from selecting seeds or young plants at the nursery, to watering and picking sprigs or leaves to add to meals. You might also spend a few hours one afternoon making labels for the garden as well as for any herbs that will be grown in containers indoors; kids love to decorate pots, make name tags and decorate labels for “their” plants. I really shouldn't say this is only for kids--choosing, labelling, and caring for indoor plants on a windowsill in the kitchen is one of my favourite things, too.

Many herbs are easy to grow, and take only minimal care to maintain, making them favourite perennials in the garden. If you are like us, once you switch from dried herbs to fresh herbs straight from the garden or container where they grow, it will seem impossible to even think of switching back!

Monday, May 17, 2010

Make Your Garden Beautiful, Part 2

You don’t have to spend a great deal of money just to make your garden beautiful. You can create a beautiful garden just utilizing the natural layout of your yard, or even the basic setup of your patio. Making your garden beautiful does not require expensive accessories. You can create an incredible garden with a bit of ingenuity and effort.

Survey Your Environment and Include the Terrain
There are a plethora of accessories you can utilize to beautify your garden. Something beginning gardeners often overlook, however, is the wisdom in incorporating the natural landscape and unique slopes on their terrain. If you happen to have raised areas in your yard, then try planting your garden in a fluid, raised manner. Naturally raised areas can even be elevated to a higher level for a more dramatic garden display. Many gardeners have been successful planting their garden in textured variations around the base of their home. This idea works well with various structures. If your goal is to create a beautiful garden around a backyard tool shed, or even to make your city office more attractive, yes, you can. Whether the building is big or small, you can just use the base of the structure as your gardening outline. After selecting flowers that complement the environment and the color scheme of the area, you will be on your way to making yourself a more beautiful garden. Even if the area you’ve allotted is short on space, you can still inexpensively make your garden beautiful by utilizing planters that fit the aesthetic quality of your environment.

Affordable Garden Accessories
There are some affordable garden accessories that you can incorporate into your garden in order to make it more aesthetically pleasing. You can take care to utilize stones, chips, or even sand. By just adding a basic accessory that complements your garden, you’ll beautify in no time.

Make Your Garden Beautiful, Part 1

Do you want your garden to be beautiful? Of course you do! You would not be reading gardening tips if you weren’t interested improving the aesthetic quality of your garden. All gardeners want a healthy garden. When a home garden healthy, it is also beautiful. So how can you go about making your garden as healthy and beautiful as possible?

Select Your Plants Very Wisely
Just because you love the way a particular plant may look or smell, does not necessarily mean that they will immediately beautify your garden. You may love a luscious, tropical flower, but if you live in a dry, desert-like area, adding a tropical will not necessarily beautify your home garden. There are a lot of gorgeous plants from which to choose. One of the keys to making sure your garden is healthy and beautiful is making sure you select the flower that is right for your environment. Only the right kind of plants will ensure that your home garden produces to the best of its potential.

If you are planting a flower garden, then a key to making your garden beautiful is helping your flowers to bloom for long periods of time. If you have to deal with a short blooming season in your area, then try populating your garden with annuals. Annuals will start blooming early on in the season, and will continue until the end of the season. This will ensure that your flower garden is beautiful for as long as possible.

Take Care of Your Garden
If you want to make your garden beautiful, it is crucial to make sure it is properly treated and fertilized. Be sure to consider the location of your garden so that it gets the proper care. If your garden gets plenty of rainfall, then be sure to adjust your watering accordingly. With a little effort, it won’t be difficult to make your garden beautiful.

Container Gardening

Using containers for growing plants is practical as well as decorative. If any of the following situations apply, then container gardening may be for you:

--limited outdoor space—small backyard, or backyard taken up by other structures (formal landscaping, patio, swimming pool, or other structure)
--urban environment—garden is situated on a patio or balcony (some apartment buildings have rooftop areas that are suitable for container gardening as well)
--desire for decorative or culinary plants within reach of the back door or outdoor living area (flowers for decoration, or herbs within easy reach of the kitchen)

Types of Containers
Almost anything goes when it comes to choosing containers to use. Plastic, ceramic, terracotta, stone or wood containers all work well. It is important to check that there is good drainage, however, in whatever container you choose to use. Many people choose to recycle any number of household or even industrial objects as creative alternatives for container gardening. I have seen tires, barrels, antique wheelbarrows—even a re-purposed toilet--used. Others may want to add an artistic touch by painting or adding mosaics to their containers—make sure that any potentially toxic material is not in contact with the soil, and that proper fixatives or varnishes are used so that the containers are weather-resistant (unless you are happy with a rustic weathered look). Metal containers placed in direct sunlight may become too hot; containers with insufficient drainage will risk literally drowning the roots when heavy rainfall or over-watering occurs.

Drainage
Many containers come with drainage holes. If you are recycling a container, or using one that does not feature drainage holes, you can pierce your own—if possible—or else add material to the bottom of the container before adding the planting medium. Placing a few inches of gravel, stones, or broken terracotta pots will ensure that excess water is kept away from direct contact with roots. It is essential to make sure there is some sort of drainage system in place if you want to ensure success with your container gardening venture.

Medium
It is best not to transfer soil straight from the garden for use in container planting. Purchase a mix from a gardening supply store—often a mixture including a fair amount of peat moss or bark will be suggested, since this will resist compacting and provide proper drainage. Make sure you do not pack the soil or medium right to the top of the container, or else watering will be a messy job.

Light
Make sure to rotate the container so that the plants grow at the same rate and do not all start craning in one direction, as is often the case with houseplants permanently faced at a certain angle from the window.

Watering
Keep a close eye on container gardens to make sure the soil or potting mixture does not dry out—don’t use your eyes only, but use an inexpensive moisture reader that you can stick quite far down into the pot, to see what the moisture level is like closer to the roots. If pressed for time, simply stick a finger a few inches down into the soil or potting mixture—you may be surprised at how the surface appearance may be deceiving. Conversely, make sure that you do not over-water and increase the chances of water logging and drowning the roots.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

More Eco-Friendly Dandelion Control Methods

If you have tried pulling dandelions by hand, or are sick of kneeling and using a spade or the traditional hand-held pronged weeding tool, you might want to consider one of the following options.

Weeding Device With Plunger

The Weed Hound and UpRoot are two examples of this kind of tool. The best thing about these tools is that they are operated by hand, from a standing position, and do not require batteries, cords, complicated detachable parts or dangerous materials in order to operate them. These devices feature a sharp clawed tool that is positioned directly above the centre of the plant, where the root will be, underground. Push with your foot to make sure the tool descends into the soil, so that the claw is positioned around the root. Using your foot as a lever, simply pull towards your body, and the claw will grip the dandelion root. The whole plant should easily come right up. Once you get the hang of it, you will find that this goes much more quickly than the traditional method of kneeling and prying at roots by hand. The tools also have a plunger attached, so that you can quickly push on the plunger to release the plant. Once the plant is released, you can simply walk over to the next plant, reposition the tool over the centre of the plant, and start again. I find that once I get going, I can work incredibly quickly using one of these tools—I would recommend it as a great improvement over my mother’s kneel-and-pry method of dandelion removal. It is much easier on the knees and back.

Radiant Heat

One new weed-destroying technique uses brand new technology as well as a very traditional method of getting rid of plant material: fire and/or heat. Tools that use radiant (infrared) heat do not set fire to the plant; instead, they heat up the cells to such a degree that the cells burst and photosynthesis cannot be carried out. Most devices use a mixture of infrared radiation, water, and air. The tool is comprised of a long, hand-held device that can be used while standing; usually a ceramic head is attached to the device, and is held directly over the plant, an inch or two above the ground. The entire process only takes a few seconds per plant, but like many weed-control methods, more than one application may be necessary before the weeds are totally eradicated.

Flame or Steam Systems

Another type of device also uses heat to kill weeds—in this case, a short burst of flame or steam that also attacks cells and stops photosynthesis, leading--a short time later--to the plant’s death. Flame weeders often use propane or liquid paraffin; a short burst of heat is targeted at the plant, while neighbouring crops can be protected by a special attachment to the device and by directing the flame weeder only at the target weeds. These systems are best for smaller, less established weeds, although larger devices also exist for tackling entire lawns. As with any other tools where flammable materials are involved, always use caution when using the device, and never aim the weeder at dry brush or grasses, as these may ignite. Flame weeders are one of the best choices for localized weed problems and they are particularly effective for dandelions or other weeds that have taken root in the cracks of sidewalks, driveways, paved areas, stone walls, and on walkways between garden beds.

More on Organic Gardening

Companion Planting

Read up on companion planting, as it applies to plants that are well suited to your area; some flowers such as marigolds, for example, will ward off slugs due to chemicals they produce. Other plants thrive when planted near each other because one physically protects the other. Sometimes a taller, broad-leafed plant will provide shade for plants that grow best in shady or partially sunny conditions. As I mentioned in my last post, creating habitats nearby for birds and other beneficial insects is a great way to help control pests without using synthetic products as a first resort. Of course, there will be times when you may have a problem on your hands that requires a strong synthetic pesticide. Using techniques such as companion planting and crop rotation can help prevent the problem in the first place.

Rotating Your Crops

Replenishing nutrients in the soil leads to healthier plants. This can be accomplished by rotation planting—alternating the plants in each area of the garden in subsequent years. This is easy for most small-scale gardens and home gardens, since a large variety of vegetables and fruit bearing plants are often grown in close proximity, without elaborate stakes, protection, or support systems. Small farms and other ventures specializing in only a few plant varieties may want to look into crop rotation in more detail—planting the same crop in one area year after year can mean reduced nutrients in the soil, and more probability of recurring disease or pest infestations. For the weekend gardener or the urban gardener using containers, however, simply shifting the items in the vegetable garden every few seasons should be enough to avoid the kind of problems that sometimes occur in places where the same crop has been planted year after year.

Physically Removing Pests

Keep an eye on the garden, and check regularly for slugs, snails, aphids, and other signs of pests. Some insects can be picked off and killed; slugs can be lured to tubs filled with liquid, where they drown or can be disposed of. Other insects can simply be flushed off with water from the hose—but be careful when using spray directly from the hose instead of using a nozzle that produces a lighter spray, since you don’t want to disturb nearby soil that has been newly sown with seeds, or that has young sprouts coming up.

Protecting Your Garden Beds

Although it seems almost too obvious to mention, larger garden visitors such as deer and rabbits can be dissuaded from snacking on your carefully tended plants by setting up fencing, netting, or other physical barriers. Some of these systems will need to be set up over the crops (netting to dissuade birds, for example), while others will need to be staked or set into the ground so that animals cannot dig their way in.

Organic Gardening--Some Of the Main Principles

Organic Gardening

The farms producing fruit and vegetables that are certified to be organic have met strict standards, and gone through an intensive application and testing process. For the average gardener, however, organic gardening means gardening naturally—attempting to follow the cycles of nature, and using as many natural or naturally derived (as opposed to synthetic) products as possible.

The Soil

Of course, the soil is a critical factor—perhaps the most important one. If you want to avoid using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides in your garden, you must start by aerating the soil and making sure it is rich in organic material, that can be mulched into topsoil or spread over the surface of the area where you wish to plant. Compost can be made on-site or purchased at your local garden supply store. Check around for topsoil and compost that can be bought in bulk—some places offer delivery of large loads that can be dumped, covered with a tarp, and then dug into various flower or vegetable beds on the property. Clay soil holds nutrients well, but will need sand and organic matter in order to drain properly. Clay soils also need to be well aerated so that roots can grow and gather nutrients; sandy soils drain well, but will need organic matter to help retain water and nutrients—both are necessary for plants to thrive. Plants that are healthy and not under stress will be more resistant to disease.

Organic matter can take the form of compost, manure, fish heads, seaweed (available commercially in liquid form), dried grasses, leaves, and other plant matter that has been collected on the property. Make sure to turn the earth and use a hoe to break up any compacted clumps, and to create raised beds, if possible, and build shallow trenches or hills before planting--check the information on seed packets for information on specific procedures that will help seeds to sprout and each type of fruit, vegetable, or flowering plant to thrive. Make sure you dig deep enough to provide aerated space far below ground for roots that will run deep.

Alternatives to Pesticides

If the plants are healthy, and grown in areas to which they are well suited, then you will likely have fewer pests and disease outbreaks to deal with. Some problems may be temporary, and may disappear as the season progresses--part of learning to garden naturally means taking the time to understand the processes underway in the garden. Sometimes this means waiting and watching, not necessarily taking out the insecticide and spraying liberally at the first signs of a problem. Also, working with the cycles of nature, and having other naturalized areas nearby means that you will have a variety of insects and other small creatures in the vicinity. Many of these will be beneficial to the garden, since birds, spiders, and ladybugs (among others) may feed on garden pests such as aphids, caterpillars and other insects.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Rid Your Home Garden of Weeds, Part 5

Weeds want to grow and thrive. In fact, if they were growing on their own time and in their own yard, there would be no problem. Most of us, however want them absent from our own gardens. One of the best ways to start the weed eradication process is to start the weed identification process.

Pause for Weed Identification
Two perennial weeds to be aware of are the Centella and the Cinquefoil. The Centella weed is often found in sandy soil. It grows and spreads quickly. The Cinquefoil is a weed that can be found even when soil is infertile. Like many other weeds, it is also known to spread quickly.

Other perennial weeds of which to be aware is the Sheep Sorrel and the Beggarweed. Beggarweed spreads quickly to other areas. It look like clover. But there is a big difference between the two. The Beggarwood is far more difficult to control! It truly does ‘grow like a weed.’ The Sheep Sorrel is another weed to keep in mind. The root system of the Sheep Sorrel is very strong and resilient. It can take over an area very quickly – devastating the grasses and plant life in its path. It is another weed that is not at all easy to eliminate.

When you are dealing with aggressive weeds, you can still be successful. One key to keeping your garden weed free is to be keenly observant of your own garden. Take note of the plant life that does not belong, and eliminate it before it can spread throughout your home garden and lawn.
If you are pulling up weeds by hand, you can be very effective. Try to remember to dig out the weeds by their root. After all, you don’t want the weeds to just keep growing back, do you? By pulling the weeds up by the root, you can bring your garden another step loser to being weed free.

Rid Your Home Garden of Weeds, Part 4

To combat the enemy, you must first understand the enemy. If you want to rid yourself of weeds, you need to know what kind of weeds are out there. This article will help you become more educated in the ways of weed identification.

Weeds with Broad Leaves
If your yard has a multitude of weed seeds, or if your lawn is not maintained on a regular basis, you can expect to become well-acquainted with Broad Leaf Weeds. These particular weeds include plantains, ivy, and dandelions. Since some weed seeds – like the dandelion – can use a slight summer breeze to travel from one place to the next, diligence is essential. Be sure to mow your lawn regularly, and keep herbicide on hand.

Be Prepared for a Weed Invasion
Scary as it may sound, there are actually perennial weeds that try to invade your lawn or garden at every opportunity. This particularly pesky weed can deprive flowers and veggies of much needed nutrients – and even water. The weed takes what it needs at the expense of the surrounding plants. By using herbicides and being observant Invasive Weeds can be kept under control.

An Aid in the Gardener’s Ongoing Battle Against Weeds
This Thursday we are introducing a simple tool that can help a gardener get rid of the weeds in their home garden. Whether you use chemically-based herbicides to eliminate unwanted weeds, or if you prefer more natural weed-control methods, this is a tool that could be helpful to all types of gardeners:

All-in-One Garden Knife
This garden-knife is a remarkably versatile tool. Here are some of it’s features:

Stainless steel blade has one serrated edge, one straight Great for opening bags, cutting sod and twine
The comfort-grip handle doubles as a tamp for sowing seeds
The blade is slightly dished for digging and is marked in 1" increments for planting
12-inch measurement scale for bulbs

For more information, contact: http://www.gardeners.com/Multi-Purpose-Garden-Knife/GardeningTools_PlantingTools,36-614,default,cp.html

Rid Your Home Garden of Weeds, Part 3

So do you control the weeds in your garden or on your lawn, or are they controlling you? Weeds tend to grow in just the wrong spot. They can deprive the plants you’ve purchased and nourished from getting proper sunlight and nutrients. Weeds may not only compromise the health of the plants in your garden, but they can also make a garden very unsightly and unkept. Don’t let weeds control your lawn and garden. Rid your home garden of their unwanted presence and keep them under control. You can keep weeds from reining over your garden and lawn by simply pulling them up and/or applying natural or chemically-based herbicide.

Apply Herbicide Carefully
If you have had enough of weeds moving into your garden, then perhaps you may decide to go with an herbicide. Herbicides can be a very helpful aid in getting rid of weeds. Remember, however, that weeds are simply plants growing in the wrong place at the wrong time. Should you decide to eliminate weeds be sure to apply your herbicide far away from your flowers and growing veggies. Herbicide can be safely sprayed near structures, like fences.

Smother Them to Death
You can also get rid of weeds by smothering them. Simply delegate your mulch to do the job. The mulch needs to be laid over the weeds in your garden. This will keep new weeds from growing. It will also make it easier for you to gather up the dead weeds.

There is No Shame in Using Your Natural Tools
What are some natural tools you can use to get rid of weeds? Your hands! It is never too late to pull those weeds and show them who’s boss. To keep your garden well maintained, try to have a regular schedule planned. By regularly checking for any signs of weeds, you’ll be better equipped to do what is necessary to keep your garden under control.

Dandelion Removal Methods

This week I will also be looking into several methods used for removing dandelions and ways to prevent them from taking over a garden bed or lawn.

Pulling Weeds by Hand

Pulling weeds by hand is, of course, the reliable, age-old method—though it can be hard on the back or knees if you have to kneel for quite some time in order to complete the task. This removal method works best for lawns full of dandelions that have not yet matured into hardy plants. When the plants are very young—and before roots have become thick and well entrenched in the spot where they are growing—dandelions can be pulled by hand, and then collected and bagged for disposal. Simply mowing over dandelions may actually help spread the weed, since flowers which have gone to seed will be mulched directly into the soil. For the first few seasons we were homeowners, my spouse prided himself on having used the mulch-as-you-go lawnmower to return the nutrient-rich grass clippings back into the soil of our lawn. After surveying the results the next summer, however, he made a quick call to a company specializing in lawn care. The fellow on the other end of the line explained that if he hadn’t first done anything to remove weeds--by chemical means, or by hand--then he was essentially sowing the yard with weeds and helping ensure a plentiful crop of weeds in the lawn the next summer.

It is easiest to pull dandelions by hand when the soil is damp. To avoid stained hands, wear a pair of gardening gloves (always a good idea, anyhow, since you never know when you will come up against thistles, burrs, sharp branches, or insects).

Cutting the Plants off Just Above the Root

Instead of all the bending and kneeling involved in repetitively yanking dandelions out by hand, another option is to deprive the plant of everything that it normally gathers above ground through its leaves and transports through its stem. Simply take some clippers or a medium-sized set of garden shears, and cut the plant off as close to the ground as you can. Make sure to cut off as much of the stem and as many of the leaves as possible. You may need to repeat the process several times. Collect the plants (particularly the flower heads), since they may still release seeds that will self-seed in your lawn. The plant’s goal is to make sure it sends potential offspring out into the world, particularly when conditions are unfavourable. Weeds are tenacious for this reason. Keep your lawn well seeded, and do not cut it too short--this will also help prevent seeds from finding a hospitable place to settle and take root.

Rid Your Home Garden of Weeds, Part 2

After working so hard to select just the right plants, prepare your soil, and fertilize and nurture your plot of land, the last thing you want creeping into your garden are weeds. Weeds can grow and spread very quickly. In little time, the home garden you worked so hard to cultivate can be gone. So how do you keep weeds from inhabiting – and conquering your garden? Here are a few more tips that can help you rid yourself of persistent weeds from your lawn gardern.

Schedule a Time to Take Care of the Weeds
One way to keep your lawn weed-free, is to care for it carefully. Be sure to keep your grass cut – but not too low. If you scalp your grass then you could actually make things much worse. Scalped grass can expose your lawn to damage and various diseases. These vulnerable, exposed areas are breeding grounds for weeds to root, grow, and spread. By scheduling time to regularly tend your garden and lawn, you can monitor its progress and make sure that weeds do not take over.

Another thing to keep in mind is the importance to water your garden and lawn on a regular basis. Watering your garden regularly will allow you to support your entire root system. Try watering up to 3 times per week, depending on your rainfall. This can help you keep weeds under control.

It is also important to fertilize your home garden on a regular basis. If you are serious about ridding your home garden of weeds, then make sure you cut them down in your lawn and your garden. Choose a fertilizer that is best for your soil type and best for your lawn. If you have a weed problem, with a little effort and diligence, you can definitely beat it!

Monday, May 10, 2010

Part 1: Some Uses for the Dandelion—The Plant So Many People Treat as Such a Nuisance

When many people think of pervasive and annoying weeds, they think automatically of Taraxacum officinale, the common dandelion. They imagine the thick roots of the plant that refuse to be pulled from the lawn or flower bed, not realizing, perhaps, that they are getting some free aeration for their soil. As they yank out the dandelions or apply pesticides to their lawns, they are likely imagining the closely mowed, manicured lawn or neat garden they wish to create—the one free of the pesky yellow flowers with their easily recognized notched leaves. Yet these plants have a rich history and many uses, ranging from medicinal infusions, teas, extracts, and now capsules, to culinary use (less popular now in North America than once was the case here and in Europe, India, and many other Asian countries). Dandelion plants also play important roles in the garden as a source of nectar for bees and food for the larvae of certain insects. Also edible, and a good source of vitamins and minerals, the leaves of the dandelion plant can be used as greens in salads; the roots and leaves are used to treat liver problems, while the root alone is used in detoxification regimens as well as to support liver and kidney function.

The Edible Plant: Dandelion Greens

If you are going to pick your own dandelion greens to use in a salad, make sure that you are actually harvesting Taraxacum officinale (the common dandelion) and not one of the plants that closely resembles it. The true dandelion will have a smooth stem, with one flower exclusively per stem, and will not have hairy leaves. The stems of several other plants, closely resembling dandelions--and often called by their name--have hairy stems, with several leaves branching from them; it is one of the Taraxacum varieties you will be after, if you want to eat or make use of the leaves, root, or flower heads.

The leaves are best picked from young to newly mature plants, before the flowers appear; ancient herbalists’ lore suggests harvesting the plants from meadowland, in either sunny or shady locations, making sure to harvest straight, robust roots from plants at least two years old. For those simply wishing to add some interesting greens to the salad bowl at their next meal, it is probably good enough to make sure the dandelion plants are healthy, and growing in an area that is not right next to a major highway or industrial park. Common sense dictates that plants should be taken from garden plots or gardens where there has been no recent pesticide use—and although you will be washing the greens carefully, it doesn’t hurt to verify that there has been no recent dumping of chemicals or refuse, chemical lawn treatment, or neighbourhood animals who may have left a sign of their presence in the neighbourhood by marking their territory.

Various parts of the dandelion plant may also contain significant amounts of vitamin H (implicated in weight loss), and have a positive impact on the body because of their antioxidant properties.

Rid Your Home Garden of Weeds, Part 1

What can you do to rid your home garden of weeds? Most gardeners want their garden to grow like a weed, but they don’t want their garden to have any weeds! Unfortunately, weeds can pop up unexpectedly. You may go out to last year’s plot of prepared land and see uninvited weeds trying to take over. Naturally, you want your lawn to be healthy and free of pesky weeds. It is not easy to keep a garden weed-free, but it is definitely possible.

If you ignore the problem, weeds can take over in no time at all. What should you do to eliminate them? It is important to care for your lawn and home garden diligently. Keep your plants and lawn watered, mowed, and fed. This article discusses a few specific ways to rid your home garden of weeds. When weeds attack your garden - yes, you can defend it!

Start by Pulling the Large Weeds
To start the process of weed elimination, pull, pull, pull. Try to start with dandelions or other large weeds. Dandelions are a common weed found in a variety of gardens. Why should you start by pulling them and others like them? Dandelions reseed themselves in the soil of your garden or lawn when they bloom. If you don’t pull them quickly – before they begin blooming, you’ll have a lot more weed-pulling to do very soon! Therefore, when you first begin to notice the presence of any large flowering weeds, start pulling right away.

Call for Reinforcement: Utilize Your Local Garden Supply Store
If you have a garden, in your yard area, it is wise to be concerned about the health of your entire lawn. After all, weeds don’t decide to carefully reseed outside of your garden. Their seeds can blow right into your well-prepared garden soil. Besides, a healthy lawn well complements any home garden. If you are concerned about the weeds taking over your lawn, be sure to utilize your local garden supply store. Your garden supply store representative can help you select an herbicide that is appropriate for treating your type of lawn. Your herbicide can then be applied to the weeds in your lawn. Don’t over apply the product, as that can kill your grass. Simply follow the directions of the herbicide.

Friday, May 7, 2010

Surveying the Dandelion Patch that is our Back Lawn

Surveying our new back yard--which is bare in some places and full of thriving dandelions in others--is a little disconcerting. I will miss our previous yard—we had almost 10,000 square feet of land, with a variety of trees, and a regular group of visitors, including a woodpecker, red-winged blackbirds, and a pair of mourning doves. Our current backyard is a typical suburban 6,000 square feet, with similar yards just like it behind us and on either side; city bylaw requires that at least one tree be planted in the front yard, but sadly, most of the backyards around us (including our own, for now) have few—if any—trees or natural landscape features.

I have been planning several garden beds, and hope to have recuperated some of the yard by next year, when we plan to take down and move some of the deck the previous owners put up—they had not wanted the hassle of seeding the lawn, mowing, and weeding. I feel somewhat the same way: I am not a great fan of perfectly manicured lawns, although I respect the people who put in the effort to pull them off. I hadn’t minded that most of the back lawn at our last place had been taken over by wild strawberry, plantain, and clover. However, if we are going to reduce the amount of lawn in the backyard, then I want to replace it with flower beds, a vegetable garden, and a naturalized area, with some shade and perhaps a bench or small outdoor statue or play structure.

What is clear is that we have more than our share of dandelions. Although I go after them with a special root-ousting tool that we purchased (that can be worked very efficiently while standing up--I believe it goes by the name of Weed Hound) I do feel somewhat guilty about getting rid of so many of the plants. Having heard from friends that the greens can be used in salads, and that they have medicinal value, I thought I would do a bit of reading about the weeds that are so prolific, and that so many people—like our neighbour Bruno, across the way--go after, with such ardour.

It turns out that dandelion greens are in fact packed full of vitamins and minerals--they contain, among other things, a great deal of vitamin A, iron, and vitamin C. It is the roots, with their white milky fluid, that have traditionally been used by herbalists for their diuretic effects as well as to help treat problems of the liver.

In the next few weeks I will be looking into the history and uses of the plant. I also plan on looking into several of the best ways to rid the yard of dandelions, without the use of pesticides.

The Basics of Naturalizing a Landscape

Many members of a community may be interested in educating themselves about how to naturalize the areas near where they live or where they want to spend time. Whether your project is an urban lot, a traditionally landscaped park, or a suburban backyard, many of the guiding principles and challenges will be the same.

Naturalizing an area does not mean totally abandoning maintenance—some people equate naturalization with letting nature take its course while stepping back and doing little to maintain the area. Actually, using native plants and providing water sources for native wildlife may mean different—but not necessarily more difficult—tasks for the gardener to undertake throughout the year.

Traditional, formal landscaping has usually not been accommodating to local wildlife; it has often involved a great deal of energy use (water, electricity, and so on) and has relied on the use of commercial pesticides. Naturalizing means providing the conditions for an entire community of plants and animals to consistently find suitable conditions for growth, as well as food and shelter.

First, you will need to research your area—find out what Bioregion you are in, and what species are native to where you live. Some plants that may commonly be thought of as being native to an area may actually have been introduced by Europeans when they arrived in North America, so it pays to spend the time researching before you begin planning or making your first purchases. Most large nurseries will have sections reserved for native plants, and local landscapers or landscape architects may be able to help you draw up specific plans for the area.

Once you begin to let a lawn or open area become less formally maintained, you will allow succession to occur—first smaller plants will take root, and then shrubs and trees. Once the necessary nutrients have been reintroduced to the soil--and some native plants are present--insects, birds, and other wildlife will be able to move back in if they can find sufficient (and consistent) food sources and shelter.

Other than careful planning and selecting a variety of species that will mimic natural conditions, the next big job facing the steward will be to remove invasive species such as ragweed or dandelion, for example, that will want to take over the available area or the newly un-manicured lawn.

Soil preparation will also be key to helping your project succeed—turning the earth or adding new topsoil and organic matter will give seeds and roots a better chance of surviving and thriving—which in turn will be the foundation for transforming the landscape.

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Composting In Small Spaces: Using Worms for Vermicomposting

If you live in an apartment and practice container gardening on your porch, or if you have major space restraints, with little or no lawn on which to set up a traditional compost bin or heap (or if you are just adventurous, and like worms a great deal) consider setting up a vermicomposting bin.

Vermicomposting kits are available for sale—they often contain everything you will need, including the tub or structure to house the worms, bedding, and the worms themselves. Another option is to create your own worm composting system, using materials readily available at your local hardware store. At its most basic, you will need a tub or storage bin that is wider than it is deep, bedding such as newspapers or shredded cardboard, and of course waste material, which you will be supplying from kitchen trimmings or piles of raked leaves in the autumn.

Worm composting systems can function indoors; whether indoors or out, you may want to set up a tray to go underneath your bin, so that you can drill holes in the bin to let the air in, and any excess water out. Most compost systems need to be kept fairly moist in order to function properly; your vermicomposting system may need even more moisture than a traditional compost heap requires. Another good habit to get into is to set a covered bowl, plastic tub, or small bin in an accessible place, so that food scraps can begin to decompose somewhat before you add them to the vermicomposting bin.

Make sure you purchase the proper variety of worms when you get started, and that you have an appropriate number of worms for the size of the container. Red worms (also known as red wigglers), not common earthworms, are the variety most often used in worm composting systems. Although red worms don’t mind living in close quarters, make sure you calculate how many worms per square foot your system will hold, so that you do not overcrowd them and risk having problems develop.

If you want to purchase a pre-made vermicomposting system, you should be able to get everything for about $100—perhaps less. Systems come in several different shapes and sizes, so make sure you get a system that will work in the space available in or around your home. There are even worm composting systems that can be suspended on supports, so that they are not limited to being kept in a corner, on the ground, or in the basement—these suspended systems are worth looking into, as well.

Whether you buy a vermicomposting system or make one on your own, be sure to consider how the vermicompost will be removed once it is ready. Having a convenient way to remove the compost is very important, since it means you will be able to make use of the rich organic matter, and add it to your beds or containers as soon as it is ready—it is your reward, after all, for taking the time to set up and monitor the composting system.

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Ideas to Improve Your Home Garden, Part 3

One major way to improve your home garden is to improve the level of nutrients in your soil. Plenty of nutrients can increase your soil’s fertility. An excellent way to do this is to utilize composts. Whether you are planting herbs, flowers, or vegetables, a compost can help your garden retain water and grow productively. However, for your garden to benefit from compost, you must fully understand how it is made and how it is used.

What is Compost?
A compost can be made up of a variety of different organic materials. Generally it consists of animal manure and/or decomposed organic matter. The manure and plant matter naturally break down into crumbly, nutrient rich soil. This compost can then be added to the soil of your garden. As a result of the mixture, your garden soil is revitalized. Compost increases the nutrients of your soil, and fertilizes your flowers, vegetables, or herbs.

Compost Helpers
Compost helpers come in the form of microorganisms. What are microorganisms? They are small organisms like bacteria, fungi, small algae, protozoa, and the famous earthworm. Since microorganisms are always reproducing, they are essential in making the soil more nutritious. Without these compost helpers, your garden will not produce to the best of its ability. In fact, if you are growing vegetables or any other crop, your food may not be as rich in flavor. Your yield will also not be nearly as impressive.

How Can You Make Your Own Compost?
There are various methods of composting. You can designate a bin for food scraps, plant materials, cut grass, coffee grounds, and other organic materials. Other methods are burying scraps of food and other compounds in an underground compost. You can even compost worms. A compost bin can easily be purchased at your local garden center.

Why Should I Make My Own Compost?
Composts will definitely benefit your home garden. It will make your soil rich, fertile, and nutritious for your crop. With active microorganisms in your soil, all of your plants will benefit from the nutrients released into the plant roots. Of course, composts do more than just improve your plants. They are a key element in decontaminating and regenerating unproductive soil. So help your garden and help the environment all at the same time!

More Tips on Home Composting

Turning the Heap

The compost heap will need to be turned quite often, to make sure that new and old materials mix, and to move material from the sides of the heap into the centre, where the active decomposition is taking place. Turning also ensures that the material in the process of being composted is kept evenly moist—if the heap seems particularly dry, you might want to add a small amount of water, and then mix it in. Most gardeners turn the heap every four to six weeks—bins may require turning more often; this might of course be tricky in winter, if you live in certain areas, although material can be added to the compost heap, nonetheless.

Compost will be ready when you can no longer identify separate components—it will be a rich, dark material, similar in texture to manure. Compost can be shovelled into a wheelbarrow and then spread directly in the garden.

If you are using a compost bin, it will likely have a removable lid where new materials can be added, and a small hinged door or trap near the ground, where compost can be removed once it is ready. If you have a series of heaps, begin by filling one heap completely, and then move to the second heap. This means that you can have one heap further along in the process, with materials ready to be used, and a separate heap that can receive fresh compostable materials.

Turning the heap ensures the materials are evenly distributed--that everything is getting a chance at being broken down at the hot centre of the heap. Introducing air to the pile by turning it with a fork, spade, or even a large stick means that the pile will be less smelly—something you and any others sharing the space or living nearby will surely appreciate.

Composting in Winter—and a few other tricks for bins and heaps

My mother used to throw kitchen peelings into the compost bucket throughout the winter, then bag them and leave them on the back porch until early spring, when she could get out to the compost bin at the far end of the garden without having to tromp through knee-deep snow.

It is possible to keep a compost going during the winter, however. The larger the heap, the better it is for year-round composting. The centre of a large compost heap can reach a temperature of 160 degrees (70 degrees Celsius) in the spring and summer, so that you need not worry about plant diseases, insect eggs, and so on, being propagated there.

While large heaps are better off during the winter, since they will heat up faster in the spring, a smaller covered bin will retain moisture much more efficiently than the mesh-sided heap. You may want to lay a plastic sheet over your heap if you have added large amounts of dry material such as leaves and dried grasses.

Also, if you are able to layer your compost, it is a good idea to alternate between fruit and vegetable trimmings and materials such as sawdust or dry leaves and grasses, since these tend to dry out the heap, and don’t contain as much nitrogen, which you want evenly distributed in the garden once the composting process has been completed and it is ready to use.

Preparing for a Vegetable Garden at Home

If you’ve decided to go forward with a vegetable garden, then there are a few essential things to keep in mind.

Make Your Soil Hospitable to Vegetables
Have you decided where to plant your vegetable garden this year? Gardens that are planted in a new area of your yard may do just fine. Just test your soil to make sure it has sufficient nutrients. If you decide to plant your vegetable garden in the same spot as last year, it’s even more imperative to test your soil. Sometimes soil that has been used a great deal can lack the necessary components. With adequate planning, you can make sure you give your soil the extra dosage of nutrients that is needed for a healthy, productive, garden.

When you begin the preparation process for your vegetable garden, try to make sure the plot you select will allow your plants to get a sufficient amount of sunlight. It is also helpful to have a water source nearby. Also, if your garden is near your house, then your plants can get extra protection from the wind. Structures near your garden can help break a rough wind before it reaches your plants.

If you are preparing your soil for a vegetable garden, make sure that it is rich with the proper amount of components. One way to add nutrients is to add compost soil. By mixing your organic compost into the soil you are preparing, you will be able to create an inviting and nutrient-rich environment for your vegetables to grow.

Care for Your Garden and Care for Your Back
For many, soil preparation is synonymous with back pain. However, there are products that can help you out in the area of garden preparation. One product is the Swan Neck Hoe. Hoes usually give you a full workout with extra tension in the back area. Back pain after using hoe is often a result of being bent over while doing strenuous digging. With the Swan Neck Hoe, gardeners can do necessary garden work while standing almost completely upright. The unique ergonomic design allows gardeners to use a hoe in an effortless manner. Here are a few benefits: “Lets you work standing up — no bending or stooping; Great for closely planted beds, weeding between pavers; Quality tool that lasts a lifetime; Smooth, seasoned ash handle; Hand-forged steel blades.” So caring for a vegetable garden does not mean you can’t care for your back!

For more information about the Swan Neck Hoe visit:

http://www.gardeners.com/Swan-Neck-Hoe/34-526,default,pd.html