Lawn Care: Using Grass Clippings and Dealing with White Grubs

Grass Clippings
The best thing to do is to let grass clippings stay on the lawn. As plants grow, they us up nitrogen present in the soil, and letting the grass clippings decompose naturally allows this to return to the soil without having to add it from another source. Add clippings to your compost heap as well; layer clippings with food scraps and leaves, and make sure to check the level of moisture on the heap or in the bin. Add some extra water to the heap if it is extremely dry. Clippings should decompose well, but be sure to only add them if they are free from chemicals such as pesticides that are sometimes applied to lawns. In our area, pesticide use is prohibited by bylaw; inquire in your area about what products are acceptable for local use.


White Grubs
Unfortunately, our area is plagued by persistent problems with white grubs. The grubs live under the turf, and feed on the roots of the grass, leaving entire patches of dead turf (or turf that is severely dicoloured and unhealthy). Another problem is that a variety of creatures may be attracted to the lawn to feed on the grubs—this can lead to quite a bit of damage in its own right. If the grub problem is aggressive, call the city to see if free or subsidized treatments are available. It is better to try prevention—many things can help reduce the likelihood of white grubs proliferating in your lawn.

The timing for applying insecticides will depend on the variety of beetle that is causing the problem; some will lay their eggs in the spring and have one instar (larval stage) that feeds over the late spring and summer. Others may have another instar in the early fall, which can do even more damage, just as you were thinking the problems were going to be over until the next year.

A healthy lawn will be more resistant to problems. Nematodes are also often used as a biological control—make sure to keep the lawn moist for this to be effective. If you choose to use insecticides, check first to make sure that your problem is indeed serious enough to warrant the application of this product. Many people treat without actually needing to, since a certain number of grubs should be expected in any lawn. Aerate and water well when applying the insecticide, to make sure the product gets down far enough, to where the grubs are actually located.

If in doubt about how serious your grub problem is, contact a lawn care expert in your area for advice and/or a home visit.

Dead-Heading and Pinching Back

Since annuals develop, mature, and die in one season, dead-heading (removing spent flowers) can encourage the plants to send out another flower before seeds develop. Once seeds are set, this gives the plant the message that its purpose has now been carried out. By removing flowers that are on their way out anyway, you are helping to extend the flowering time for the plant.

Check to see that flowers are becoming brown and beginning to look bedraggled—this is the time to remove them.

Use your fingers to pinch off (remove) some of the stem, just under the flower head. You may also use scissors for plants with harder or thicker stems.
Pinching back is basically the same technique, but is used to encourage plants to become bushier and fuller--instead of growing straight up, which can produce leggy plants (as well as fewer flowers).

If you have low growing plants such as alyssum or plants that tend to spread out in profusion, such as phlox and lobelia, then you can cut them back using shears. This will keep walkways tidy as well as encourage more blooms on the plants.

For perennials, pinching back will also prolong the growing season, as well as lead to bushier, more compact plants with a profusion of flowers. You can continue the process, either just below the flowers, or between sets of leaves—new buds or growing points just below where you pinch off will start up new growth. Thus each time you pinch back, two new stems will split off where one would have been before.

Note that some annuals do not need to be dead-headed—begonias, impatiens and many others will lose faded blooms on their own. On the other hand, marigolds will need to be dead-headed often, throughout the season. If you scatter the seeds in the immediate area (or place them in a small plastic bag and release them elsewhere in the garden—or scatter at a friend's place) then you should have at least one or two extra sets of plants that will mature over the growing season.

Once seeds are set, these can be removed and then spread in the garden, or else collected and then scattered somewhere else. One thing my mother always enjoys is taking seeds from gardens she passes as she goes on a walk through town. She usually limits herself to the plants within easiest reach of the sidewalk. It has been enjoyable for us to see flowers coming up in the garden at our place, and to be able to pinpoint the place where the seeds came from originally—whether it was from a previous garden of my mother’s or else a garden we passed while on a particularly memorable walk!

Rain Barrels

Use a rain barrel (also known as a rainwater tank) to collect runoff from your roof—it saves having to use water from the city, and is a gesture for the environment as since it helps reduce runoff and the overuse of water in the hot summer months when water restrictions may be in place. Barrels may also come in handy if you set up your own greenhouse, since having a large source of water will help to keep the temperature warmer in the cooler months.

In some places, rain barrels are used to collect rain during the rainy season for later use in periods of drought or when rainfall is extremely limited. More commonly, home owners or gardeners working on a communal project (such as a school or church garden) will set up one or two small rain barrels for limited use in the garden, or as a back-up for times when restrictions are in place. Other applications include collecting runoff for use in washing machines, toilets, or as a source of drinking water (although more precautions are necessary if the water is going to be consumed).

Rain barrels come in a variety of shapes, including (but not limited to) the traditional barrel construction. Tanks are usually made of an opaque material to reduce the amount of sunlight getting through—and lined with plastic for durability. Using an opaque material prevents or reduces the likelihood of problems with algae. When comparison shopping, check the lid of the rain barrel you are considering purchasing. It is crucial that an excellent seal is in place to prevent mosquito larvae from breeding in the rain barrel.

Rain barrels come in all sorts of designs—from purely functional to decorative. Some mimic the look of large clay planters, with a space for plants at the top. The design may also include down spouts, spigot, and a small garden hose.
Some cities offer a subsidy for citizens who install rain barrels, sometimes reducing the cost from several hundred dollars by up to half or more.
It is also possible for DIY enthusiasts to construct a rain barrel from scratch, using food-grade drums or other suitable containers. Some companies also sell kits to help you construct your own water barrel using materials that can either be bought or recycled.

Watering Tips

The amount of water that plants require varies; the good news is that the signs of severe over- or under-watering will be fairly hard to miss.

As a rule of thumb, one thorough weekly watering will usually be sufficient if there is some rainfall and the conditions are not particularly extreme (i.e. severely strong winds or a heat wave). For most gardens, about an inch of water per week is good—whether this comes from rainfall or another system (hand-held hose, drip irrigation system, and so on).

If the garden is in a very windy area, consider constructing a windbreak of some kind. This could be hand-made (i.e. fencing or even a decorative wooden panel) or natural, such as shrubs or trees planted in a strategic location.
Check the conditions of your plants as well as the soil for signs that you have been providing the right amount of water to meet their needs. If plants need soil that is moist, do not let the soil dry out completely—you can check the surface to verify this. In most garden beds, drainage should be good enough that there is little worry of over-watering to such an extent that you harm the plant, as can very easily happen when using containers (although of course anything is possible if the situation is extreme enough!). For plants needing dry soil conditions, check to see how the soil feels about an inch to an inch and a half below the surface—once it has dried out to this level, they you should feel free to water again.

Watering by hand using a watering can is ideal, since it lets you keep an eye on the condition of your plants and lets you water directly at the roots. When the foliage gets wet, as it does using other watering methods such as sprinklers or a hose and nozzle attachment, there is more chance for diseases to spread. If you do need to use overhead watering, try to do it in the morning, before the harsh mid-afternoon sun, and so that the foliage will dry out before nightfall. If you want to install a watering system so that you do not need to water by hand, you might consider soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems. If possible, check into rain barrels or other water conservation systems. If there are restrictions in your area (as there often are during particularly hot periods, or during set times of the year such as mid-summer) then you need to respect these, since ignoring the restrictions can lead to steep fines.

Other options for getting through the hot summer months while conserving water include buying drought-resistant plants and adding organic matter such as compost, as well as mulch , since these will help the soil retain moisture.

Greenhouse Basics

To fully function as a greenhouse, the structure must provide consistent and adequate heat, ventilation, moisture and shade for plants to grow throughout all seasons of the year, including winter. Greenhouse designs vary from the most basic do-it-yourself projects featuring basic materials, to kits that can be purchased in many different price brackets.

Hoop Style Greenhouses
If you want to construct a hoop style greenhouse, you will need the following materials: treated or rot-resistant wood; rebar; PVC pipe; 6mm plastic; staples or wood lathe; nails; door handle and hinges. For the simplest design, use barrels of water to keep the temperature a few degrees warmer than outside. If winters are particularly harsh, you may need to use additional heating, such as passive solar power or another eco-friendly heater. Other traditional heating methods are also possible--you can inquire locally about this.

Wooden Houses—the traditional wooden house with glass can be purchased in a kit. Make sure to keep an eye on the condition of the wood, since it will need to be maintained.

Metal Frame Greenhouses—aluminum or galvanized steel are used for the frame. Aluminum is compatible with either glass, plastic (polyethylane) or polycarbonate panels. Galvanized steel is very sturdy, but you need to make sure it has been treated before drilling (or else rust-proofed with paint) to avoid rust.

Before purchasing a kit or purchasing your materials, it is important that you take exact measurements for where you plan on placing the greenhouse. This is very important if you plan on having it abut the edge of the house or another large structure.

When planning your design and selecting materials, keep in mind the winter conditions in your area (snowfall, average temperatures, extreme winter temperatures, and so on) so that you can factor in the cost for heating and upkeep. Greenhouses that function throughout a long and challenging winter season may end up costing a great deal to heat. Just make sure to keep this in mind so that a weekend project does not end up becoming an expense and a frustration. If winters are milder in your area, you may very well be okay with a hoop style structure or a wooden frame, with a few barrels of water or a solar heater providing for your heating needs. Take a moment to consider the kinds of things you will be growing, and whether your goal is to have plants grow or else fully mature and be harvested within the greenhouse.

A ventilation system and an adequate irrigation system are also crucial. Spending the time planning (and putting in the initial investment) for good ventilation and watering systems will save lots of hassle and potential problems in the long run.

Taking Over An Established Garden

If you move or are asked to care for a garden that is already established, take your time getting to know it. The standard advice is to wait at least one full year before making any major decisions. This is because the garden may have some surprises—plants you are not familiar with that may bloom at unexpected times, either earlier or later than you had expected; bulbs you did not know you had, that could accidentally be disturbed or cut into as you dig in new plants or prepare the soil. If you are a beginner, you may even need to wait to see what turns out to be a perennial and what is actually a weed—there are still a few times when we give a plant the benefit of the doubt before yanking it out of the ground!

Simply taking some time to get to know the garden will be beneficial in other ways, as well. You can get a sense of the succession of blooms throughout the spring and summer season, and take note of anything that is lacking (either take note mentally, or note information down formally in a gardening journal or notepad kept for this task). Lacking elements might include areas that could benefit from bold mass plantings to add colour and drama; periods of time when there is a lull between blooming times of various plants; and areas of the garden that seem overgrown or else sparse and neglected.

Once you get in there and begin moving, removing, and adding plants, make sure to have containers on hand for any extras—if you divide perennials, you may very well have a host of extra plants that can be moved to other areas of the garden or else given away to friends, family members, neighbours, or other members of the community.

At our last house, neighbours of ours dug out two beautiful and fairly well established lilacs (luckily, roots and all), and had left them on their lawn for pick-up by the city, thinking they would simply dispose of them. We hauled them over to our house and planted them immediately, and were well rewarded for this “find” we took the time to inquire about before the city had removed them. Neighbouring gardening enthusiasts may very well have plants to share with you—it doesn’t hurt to strike up a conversation, share a few tips, and swap plants now and then with other gardeners in the neighbourhood. And if you see a neighbour in the process of doing a major overhaul on his or her garden and removing a considerable number of plants that look interesting (particularly if they look like they are being thrown out)--well, it never hurts to ask if you could take a few of them home instead.

Working With Shade

Many gardens are combination gardens, with walls, hedges, trees or various structures leaving areas of the garden in complete or partial shade. Other gardens—such as those in urban areas, or in historic residential neighbourhoods where space was limited and many houses were joined together in rows, with very narrow treed back lots—will be in almost complete shade.

Instead of looking at this as a setback, think of the shade garden as a special challenge, with its own limitations as well as positive characteristics and opportunities. Lots that are walled on all sides are particular challenges. If you are working with such a situation, use your creativity, and hunt down ideas from a range of sources, from gardening shows on television to advice from local gardeners or your local nursery. The internet is of course also a good resource! Begin thinking of ways you can soften the hard edges of the walls that border on your lot. If you have the permission of the owners (and/or tenants) of the adjacent buildings, you may be able to convince them to let you use paint, trellises, or other elements such as mounted hanging baskets to soften things up and provide repeating patterns, texture and interest.

If the area is fully shaded, you will likely have grass that is in poor condition as well. Bring in paving stones or brick to cover fully shaded areas that you will not be making into garden beds. Believe it or not, there are also some vegetables that can grow well in partial shade—keep this in mind if you have a spot that would be perfect for a small garden bed.

In the shade garden, you certainly won’t have the variety of bright colours you may be used to working with. Think more along the lines of texture; use mass plantings to emphasize the blocks of more subtle colours you will be working with. Ferns are beautiful for their volume and delicate leaf design. Astilbe can add punch of colour in the pink, red and white range. If you are using a trellis, and do have a considerable amount of sun cutting through despite the shade cast by walls or trees, plant climbing plants so that flowers have access to the sun at the top of the trellis.

Other climbers to consider include climbing hydrangea and Virginia creeper. The delicate flowers of the hydrangea are nice in the summertime, while the leaves of the Virginia creeper change to a rich red in the fall, adding interest and contrast to other shade plants in the garden. For ground cover, try periwinkle or Lily of the Valley.