Lawn Care: Using Grass Clippings and Dealing with White Grubs

Grass Clippings
The best thing to do is to let grass clippings stay on the lawn. As plants grow, they us up nitrogen present in the soil, and letting the grass clippings decompose naturally allows this to return to the soil without having to add it from another source. Add clippings to your compost heap as well; layer clippings with food scraps and leaves, and make sure to check the level of moisture on the heap or in the bin. Add some extra water to the heap if it is extremely dry. Clippings should decompose well, but be sure to only add them if they are free from chemicals such as pesticides that are sometimes applied to lawns. In our area, pesticide use is prohibited by bylaw; inquire in your area about what products are acceptable for local use.


White Grubs
Unfortunately, our area is plagued by persistent problems with white grubs. The grubs live under the turf, and feed on the roots of the grass, leaving entire patches of dead turf (or turf that is severely dicoloured and unhealthy). Another problem is that a variety of creatures may be attracted to the lawn to feed on the grubs—this can lead to quite a bit of damage in its own right. If the grub problem is aggressive, call the city to see if free or subsidized treatments are available. It is better to try prevention—many things can help reduce the likelihood of white grubs proliferating in your lawn.

The timing for applying insecticides will depend on the variety of beetle that is causing the problem; some will lay their eggs in the spring and have one instar (larval stage) that feeds over the late spring and summer. Others may have another instar in the early fall, which can do even more damage, just as you were thinking the problems were going to be over until the next year.

A healthy lawn will be more resistant to problems. Nematodes are also often used as a biological control—make sure to keep the lawn moist for this to be effective. If you choose to use insecticides, check first to make sure that your problem is indeed serious enough to warrant the application of this product. Many people treat without actually needing to, since a certain number of grubs should be expected in any lawn. Aerate and water well when applying the insecticide, to make sure the product gets down far enough, to where the grubs are actually located.

If in doubt about how serious your grub problem is, contact a lawn care expert in your area for advice and/or a home visit.

Dead-Heading and Pinching Back

Since annuals develop, mature, and die in one season, dead-heading (removing spent flowers) can encourage the plants to send out another flower before seeds develop. Once seeds are set, this gives the plant the message that its purpose has now been carried out. By removing flowers that are on their way out anyway, you are helping to extend the flowering time for the plant.

Check to see that flowers are becoming brown and beginning to look bedraggled—this is the time to remove them.

Use your fingers to pinch off (remove) some of the stem, just under the flower head. You may also use scissors for plants with harder or thicker stems.
Pinching back is basically the same technique, but is used to encourage plants to become bushier and fuller--instead of growing straight up, which can produce leggy plants (as well as fewer flowers).

If you have low growing plants such as alyssum or plants that tend to spread out in profusion, such as phlox and lobelia, then you can cut them back using shears. This will keep walkways tidy as well as encourage more blooms on the plants.

For perennials, pinching back will also prolong the growing season, as well as lead to bushier, more compact plants with a profusion of flowers. You can continue the process, either just below the flowers, or between sets of leaves—new buds or growing points just below where you pinch off will start up new growth. Thus each time you pinch back, two new stems will split off where one would have been before.

Note that some annuals do not need to be dead-headed—begonias, impatiens and many others will lose faded blooms on their own. On the other hand, marigolds will need to be dead-headed often, throughout the season. If you scatter the seeds in the immediate area (or place them in a small plastic bag and release them elsewhere in the garden—or scatter at a friend's place) then you should have at least one or two extra sets of plants that will mature over the growing season.

Once seeds are set, these can be removed and then spread in the garden, or else collected and then scattered somewhere else. One thing my mother always enjoys is taking seeds from gardens she passes as she goes on a walk through town. She usually limits herself to the plants within easiest reach of the sidewalk. It has been enjoyable for us to see flowers coming up in the garden at our place, and to be able to pinpoint the place where the seeds came from originally—whether it was from a previous garden of my mother’s or else a garden we passed while on a particularly memorable walk!

Rain Barrels

Use a rain barrel (also known as a rainwater tank) to collect runoff from your roof—it saves having to use water from the city, and is a gesture for the environment as since it helps reduce runoff and the overuse of water in the hot summer months when water restrictions may be in place. Barrels may also come in handy if you set up your own greenhouse, since having a large source of water will help to keep the temperature warmer in the cooler months.

In some places, rain barrels are used to collect rain during the rainy season for later use in periods of drought or when rainfall is extremely limited. More commonly, home owners or gardeners working on a communal project (such as a school or church garden) will set up one or two small rain barrels for limited use in the garden, or as a back-up for times when restrictions are in place. Other applications include collecting runoff for use in washing machines, toilets, or as a source of drinking water (although more precautions are necessary if the water is going to be consumed).

Rain barrels come in a variety of shapes, including (but not limited to) the traditional barrel construction. Tanks are usually made of an opaque material to reduce the amount of sunlight getting through—and lined with plastic for durability. Using an opaque material prevents or reduces the likelihood of problems with algae. When comparison shopping, check the lid of the rain barrel you are considering purchasing. It is crucial that an excellent seal is in place to prevent mosquito larvae from breeding in the rain barrel.

Rain barrels come in all sorts of designs—from purely functional to decorative. Some mimic the look of large clay planters, with a space for plants at the top. The design may also include down spouts, spigot, and a small garden hose.
Some cities offer a subsidy for citizens who install rain barrels, sometimes reducing the cost from several hundred dollars by up to half or more.
It is also possible for DIY enthusiasts to construct a rain barrel from scratch, using food-grade drums or other suitable containers. Some companies also sell kits to help you construct your own water barrel using materials that can either be bought or recycled.

Watering Tips

The amount of water that plants require varies; the good news is that the signs of severe over- or under-watering will be fairly hard to miss.

As a rule of thumb, one thorough weekly watering will usually be sufficient if there is some rainfall and the conditions are not particularly extreme (i.e. severely strong winds or a heat wave). For most gardens, about an inch of water per week is good—whether this comes from rainfall or another system (hand-held hose, drip irrigation system, and so on).

If the garden is in a very windy area, consider constructing a windbreak of some kind. This could be hand-made (i.e. fencing or even a decorative wooden panel) or natural, such as shrubs or trees planted in a strategic location.
Check the conditions of your plants as well as the soil for signs that you have been providing the right amount of water to meet their needs. If plants need soil that is moist, do not let the soil dry out completely—you can check the surface to verify this. In most garden beds, drainage should be good enough that there is little worry of over-watering to such an extent that you harm the plant, as can very easily happen when using containers (although of course anything is possible if the situation is extreme enough!). For plants needing dry soil conditions, check to see how the soil feels about an inch to an inch and a half below the surface—once it has dried out to this level, they you should feel free to water again.

Watering by hand using a watering can is ideal, since it lets you keep an eye on the condition of your plants and lets you water directly at the roots. When the foliage gets wet, as it does using other watering methods such as sprinklers or a hose and nozzle attachment, there is more chance for diseases to spread. If you do need to use overhead watering, try to do it in the morning, before the harsh mid-afternoon sun, and so that the foliage will dry out before nightfall. If you want to install a watering system so that you do not need to water by hand, you might consider soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems. If possible, check into rain barrels or other water conservation systems. If there are restrictions in your area (as there often are during particularly hot periods, or during set times of the year such as mid-summer) then you need to respect these, since ignoring the restrictions can lead to steep fines.

Other options for getting through the hot summer months while conserving water include buying drought-resistant plants and adding organic matter such as compost, as well as mulch , since these will help the soil retain moisture.

Greenhouse Basics

To fully function as a greenhouse, the structure must provide consistent and adequate heat, ventilation, moisture and shade for plants to grow throughout all seasons of the year, including winter. Greenhouse designs vary from the most basic do-it-yourself projects featuring basic materials, to kits that can be purchased in many different price brackets.

Hoop Style Greenhouses
If you want to construct a hoop style greenhouse, you will need the following materials: treated or rot-resistant wood; rebar; PVC pipe; 6mm plastic; staples or wood lathe; nails; door handle and hinges. For the simplest design, use barrels of water to keep the temperature a few degrees warmer than outside. If winters are particularly harsh, you may need to use additional heating, such as passive solar power or another eco-friendly heater. Other traditional heating methods are also possible--you can inquire locally about this.

Wooden Houses—the traditional wooden house with glass can be purchased in a kit. Make sure to keep an eye on the condition of the wood, since it will need to be maintained.

Metal Frame Greenhouses—aluminum or galvanized steel are used for the frame. Aluminum is compatible with either glass, plastic (polyethylane) or polycarbonate panels. Galvanized steel is very sturdy, but you need to make sure it has been treated before drilling (or else rust-proofed with paint) to avoid rust.

Before purchasing a kit or purchasing your materials, it is important that you take exact measurements for where you plan on placing the greenhouse. This is very important if you plan on having it abut the edge of the house or another large structure.

When planning your design and selecting materials, keep in mind the winter conditions in your area (snowfall, average temperatures, extreme winter temperatures, and so on) so that you can factor in the cost for heating and upkeep. Greenhouses that function throughout a long and challenging winter season may end up costing a great deal to heat. Just make sure to keep this in mind so that a weekend project does not end up becoming an expense and a frustration. If winters are milder in your area, you may very well be okay with a hoop style structure or a wooden frame, with a few barrels of water or a solar heater providing for your heating needs. Take a moment to consider the kinds of things you will be growing, and whether your goal is to have plants grow or else fully mature and be harvested within the greenhouse.

A ventilation system and an adequate irrigation system are also crucial. Spending the time planning (and putting in the initial investment) for good ventilation and watering systems will save lots of hassle and potential problems in the long run.

Taking Over An Established Garden

If you move or are asked to care for a garden that is already established, take your time getting to know it. The standard advice is to wait at least one full year before making any major decisions. This is because the garden may have some surprises—plants you are not familiar with that may bloom at unexpected times, either earlier or later than you had expected; bulbs you did not know you had, that could accidentally be disturbed or cut into as you dig in new plants or prepare the soil. If you are a beginner, you may even need to wait to see what turns out to be a perennial and what is actually a weed—there are still a few times when we give a plant the benefit of the doubt before yanking it out of the ground!

Simply taking some time to get to know the garden will be beneficial in other ways, as well. You can get a sense of the succession of blooms throughout the spring and summer season, and take note of anything that is lacking (either take note mentally, or note information down formally in a gardening journal or notepad kept for this task). Lacking elements might include areas that could benefit from bold mass plantings to add colour and drama; periods of time when there is a lull between blooming times of various plants; and areas of the garden that seem overgrown or else sparse and neglected.

Once you get in there and begin moving, removing, and adding plants, make sure to have containers on hand for any extras—if you divide perennials, you may very well have a host of extra plants that can be moved to other areas of the garden or else given away to friends, family members, neighbours, or other members of the community.

At our last house, neighbours of ours dug out two beautiful and fairly well established lilacs (luckily, roots and all), and had left them on their lawn for pick-up by the city, thinking they would simply dispose of them. We hauled them over to our house and planted them immediately, and were well rewarded for this “find” we took the time to inquire about before the city had removed them. Neighbouring gardening enthusiasts may very well have plants to share with you—it doesn’t hurt to strike up a conversation, share a few tips, and swap plants now and then with other gardeners in the neighbourhood. And if you see a neighbour in the process of doing a major overhaul on his or her garden and removing a considerable number of plants that look interesting (particularly if they look like they are being thrown out)--well, it never hurts to ask if you could take a few of them home instead.

Working With Shade

Many gardens are combination gardens, with walls, hedges, trees or various structures leaving areas of the garden in complete or partial shade. Other gardens—such as those in urban areas, or in historic residential neighbourhoods where space was limited and many houses were joined together in rows, with very narrow treed back lots—will be in almost complete shade.

Instead of looking at this as a setback, think of the shade garden as a special challenge, with its own limitations as well as positive characteristics and opportunities. Lots that are walled on all sides are particular challenges. If you are working with such a situation, use your creativity, and hunt down ideas from a range of sources, from gardening shows on television to advice from local gardeners or your local nursery. The internet is of course also a good resource! Begin thinking of ways you can soften the hard edges of the walls that border on your lot. If you have the permission of the owners (and/or tenants) of the adjacent buildings, you may be able to convince them to let you use paint, trellises, or other elements such as mounted hanging baskets to soften things up and provide repeating patterns, texture and interest.

If the area is fully shaded, you will likely have grass that is in poor condition as well. Bring in paving stones or brick to cover fully shaded areas that you will not be making into garden beds. Believe it or not, there are also some vegetables that can grow well in partial shade—keep this in mind if you have a spot that would be perfect for a small garden bed.

In the shade garden, you certainly won’t have the variety of bright colours you may be used to working with. Think more along the lines of texture; use mass plantings to emphasize the blocks of more subtle colours you will be working with. Ferns are beautiful for their volume and delicate leaf design. Astilbe can add punch of colour in the pink, red and white range. If you are using a trellis, and do have a considerable amount of sun cutting through despite the shade cast by walls or trees, plant climbing plants so that flowers have access to the sun at the top of the trellis.

Other climbers to consider include climbing hydrangea and Virginia creeper. The delicate flowers of the hydrangea are nice in the summertime, while the leaves of the Virginia creeper change to a rich red in the fall, adding interest and contrast to other shade plants in the garden. For ground cover, try periwinkle or Lily of the Valley.

Common Plant Diseases—And How to Tackle Them (2)

Clearing Out Old Material from the Garden and Keeping Plants Well Spaced
Avoid overcrowding so that air can circulate between plants, discouraging certain problems that thrive in damp places; keeping the plants further apart also means that disease is less likely to be spread directly from one plant to another. Basic maintenance, including mulching and clearing out old material (dead leaves or last season’s plant stalks, for example) will also help to prevent problems from developing. Many diseases are soil borne—so, keeping leaves from trailing in the soil will also be helpful. Use stakes and wire cages for plants like tomatoes.



Mulch
Using a mulch cuts down on weeds that may help spread disease or harbour insects that can both cause damage and help to spread disease from plant to plant. Mulching also creates a barrier between the soil and the plants in the garden. The less contact there is between the soil and the surface of the plants (including stem, leaves, and fruit), the less chance there is for soil-borne disease to be spread.

Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew can be identified by the white or gray powder that coats flower buds, leaves and stems. Flowers become discoloured and distorted; white or gray patches can spread over the entire surface of the plant, including the flowers and the fruit. Keeping plants well spaced and encouraging air circulation is key; remove infected areas, wash, or spray infected plants and keep a close eye on affected plants to prevent the spread of the disease. Don’t assume that the disease will only take over when conditions are damp; spores can spread in dry conditions as well—so keep an eye on plants such as cucumber, rose, and zinnia in all weather conditions.

Wilt
Beginning at ground level, vegetables and some annuals will simply wilt and become discoloured. The disease may affect certain parts of a plant, or else the entire plant—in which case the plant should be removed and destroyed, ideally bagged first and disposed of away from other areas that could be contaminated. Fusarium and verticillium wilt are soil borne diseases. The disease works its way up from the roots through the water vessels, eventually cutting off the water supply to the leaves of the affected plant. If the problem persists or is particularly prevalent, you may need to completely change over the soil. Simply rotating crops from year to year will help prevent wilt, and in many cases it can clear up on its own with little fuss.

Several Common Plant Diseases--and How to Tackle Them (1)

Be on the lookout for some of the following signs of disease that may affect the plants in your garden. Below, I have begun a list of several of the most common plant diseases, along with some of the simplest and most effective ways of dealing with each one.

Prevention
There are several preventive actions you can take, even before signs of trouble appear. Using companion planting, rotating crops, watering early in the day or in the late afternoon(while avoiding getting water on the leaves) and keeping plants spaced far enough apart will all help reduce problems with insects as well as fungal and bacterial diseases.

When you start vegetables from seed, check the packet and purchase disease-resistant varieties whenever possible. Keeping a journal or sketchpad handy will also be helpful, since you can record information on the kinds of insects and signs of disease that are present in the garden—and chart alongside this the type of plant as well as the dates the problem occurred. Simply using some common sense practices such as removing diseased sections of the plant, companion planting and changing your planting schedule may have a significant impact and reduce problems in subsequent years.




Damping Off
Very youung seedlings and seeds that have not yet germinated rot or fall over before becoming established. To prevent damping off, make sure you do not overcrowd things when you place the seeds in flats or when you sow seeds directly in rows in the garden. If you use containers to start seeds indoors, make sure that everything has been thoroughly washed out and is free of soil or potting medium that may previously have been used to start seeds. Use vermiculite instead of soil to cover seeds and make sure you do not overwater.

Botrytis Blight
We often get this on the geraniums we keep in large planters on either side of the front steps—although it is present elsewhere in the garden as well. When this blight hits, you may notice the flowers clumping together in a brown or brownish-black mass. Leaves may be anywhere from a dark yellow to brown or black, and shrivelled at the edges. What we have found most effective is to simply remove diseased sections right away, then watch how we are watering—watering early in the day is best. We also try to use a watering can with an elongated spout, so that we can water directly around the plant, and make sure the water is going to soil and then the roots instead of sitting on the leaves, where it is not needed and may encourage diseases such as leaf spot, mildew, and blight.

Tips for Successful Summer Gardening for the Absolute Beginner (1)

Often we have ideas for major projects in the garden, whether we have moved into a new place or have finally decided to tackle a neglected area of the yard. Probably the best advice I could give the beginning gardener as we head from spring into the summer season is to start small, and to build the garden progressively each season. If you are starting from scratch in late spring, then you will still be getting used to some of the basics, and familiarizing yourself with flower varieties, soil conditions, and all the tasks that maintaining a garden requires.

As with most projects, you have to get from the inspiration and planning phase to actually putting the plan in place—and then making sure that the project is of a manageable size so that you can enjoy and maintain the garden through the summer season and into the fall, and then for years to come.

Starting Small
If you begin with a manageable project, you will be more inspired to continue to work in the garden throughout the summer, when conditions get warmer and it may be less comfortable to work outside. Daily and weekly tasks such as watering and weeding can become chores if you take on too much all at once. Introducing new habits and routines can take a bit of effort to get going, but these tasks will pay off later in the season, once you experience the beauty and benefits of a flourishing established garden. For most gardeners, time spent on these tasks represents quality time either alone or working alongside friends, family members, or members of the community. As for me, I find the more repetitive tasks quite enjoyable—I like being outdoors, and I often work alone, which gives me a much needed break from demands on my time made by work and family. If you start small, you will also gain confidence in your abilities—and an avid beginner can turn into a knowledgeable gardener in no time at all.

Soil Preparation
After turning the soil to a depth of about one foot, using a spade and then a rake to break up larger clumps of compacted soil, you can add soil conditioner and, if necessary, fertilizer. Fertilizers are broken down by the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium they contain. Most annuals and perennials will do best with the standard 15-10-10 formula. Make sure to carefully follow the instructions for best results—young plants in particular are sensitive to over-application of fertilizer.

Time Your Planting
Speak to neighbours or check with your local nursery to confirm when it is safe to plant. I am often raring to get going in the early spring, and have even found myself turning soil that was obviously still heavy with frost. If you purchase and plant too early—or set out young plants you have grown from seed when there is still a risk of frost—you risk losing the plants immediately, or else having them succumb to heat stress later in the season. If you have young plants waiting indoors in flats, make sure you set them out for a few days before planting them. Raised beds and the addition of new top soil and soil conditioners such as compost and manure will help new plants become established. Once summer is in full swing, you should be able to enjoy simple maintenance, including weeding, thinning if necessary (removing plants too close together so that each plant gets sufficient space and nutrients it needs to thrive), watering, and keeping an eye on insects and other pests that may visit or take up residence in the garden.

Growing Plants from Seeds (2)

If you are like us, you will mainly be growing annuals, vegetables and herbs from seeds—these will need a head start of between five and eight weeks before the date you plan on setting them out. Check before adhering too closely to this planting schedule, since there are exceptions to every rule, and perennials will vary quite a bit. As a rule of thumb, plan on starting vegetables about five to seven weeks early, and annuals between six and eight weeks early.

If you live in an area where there is quite a bit of snowfall, particularly late in the season, you may enjoy seeing the young plants come up in their neat rows (or randomly, if you have planted very small seeds, as the case may be) long before spring really arrives.

Flats do need quite a bit of room, so make sure to choose an area that gets lots of light but is not a high-traffic area. Keep an eye out for pets as well, since flats left on the ground may look like a nice place to dig (or worse—a new litter box). If you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse or solarium, these are ideal spots to set up your flats. Also, while you don’t want to use shelves that will diminish the amount of light that reaches each young plant, you might consider setting up one or two shelves a few feet apart, to make the most use of the space you have access to.

When you fill your containers with potting medium, make sure you do not fill them right to the top, or else water (and even the medium itself) may overflow.

If you decide to reuse flats from a previous season, make sure they are well washed (if they are made of plastic); watch for dirt or other contaminants that have stayed on or been deposited in the flats over the winter—chemicals, fungus, and insects may cause problems if your containers are not thoroughly cleaned before use. Making sure the flats are washed and free of contaminants is particularly important since young plants are quite susceptible to disease, particularly to “damping off”—something that can affect anywhere from a few plants to an entire flat full of seedlings. The fungus that causes damping off weakens the plants and causes them to topple over. When you water, do so regularly, but in moderation—this should also help cut down on the tendency for the fungus to flourish and wreak havoc in your indoor nursery.

Starting Plants from Seeds

Many gardeners like to start plants from seed in late winter or very early spring. There are numerous advantages to growing seeds from scratch, an important one being the savings. Think for a moment about the number of seeds per packet, versus the amount you will pay for a small Styrofoam flat of annuals later in the season—the savings are considerable. In addition, growing plants from seeds means that you have control over what you will be planting, so that very specific planning can take place much earlier in the season. You will not be dependent upon what the local nursery will keep in stock; you will be able to order from catalogues and procure rare or less popular varieties if you would like.

Lately, we have been stretched for time, with a full household to run, and many competing work-related obligations, sports activities, and hobbies taking up our time. We have been buying our annuals and a good proportion of our vegetables from the nursery, and have been willing to accept the extra expense. When I was young, however, my father always had flats sitting about near the back door and just below a large window that faced the garden. Starting seeds indoors as he had done ensured that we would get our first vegetables ready to harvest well before we might have if we had gone with store-bought plants. Earlier blooms and an earlier round of harvesting can be well worth the effort—and, indeed, the effort itself is not taxing—it just takes a few extra steps to get things set up, and then the discipline or habit of watering regularly.

Make sure that you select suitable containers, and wash reusable containers well with soap and water before planting. Add drainage holes and a plastic tray underneath the flat or set of containers if you are making your own. In our household, large flats made of peat moss were an absolute favourite. Young roots are fragile and do not take well to being disturbed, so the beauty of peat moss containers is that you can tear the flat up and then plant each little pot directly in the earth. Use a store-bought sowing medium, since earth from the garden may compact too easily, and may introduce diseases or unwanted seeds or insects. Check the make-up of the sowing medium—many gardeners swear by mixtures heavy on peat moss, although it is a natural resource and some people worry about the impact of such large-scale use of the product. A mixture of peat moss and vermiculite, however, ensures aeration and drainage, which are crucial to the seeds as they put out roots and begin to sprout and develop into young, healthy plants.

Some Garden Design Basics

Getting Started: Using the Shapes of your Lot and Established Garden Beds to their Best Advantage
Lots, lawns and gardens come in a variety of shapes, from incredibly compact, to long and narrow, sprawling, treed, or sparsely planted to designs that are full of formal elements and feature straight lines and angles. The base of your garden can be lush and established or languishing when you take it over--even absent, if you are taking over a garden in a new development or an urban lot that is going to be transformed in to green space. The design can also be incredibly loose, bordering on the look of a naturalized area instead of featuring a design imposed by a human hand and mind. As with any design project, begin with the basics: sketch in the “bones” of the space you have, including structures such as fences, pathways, flower beds already in existence, and other structures such as sheds, pools, ponds, decks, and so on. Use graph paper if you like, or work on several oversized sheets of paper or newsprint. Some artists and designers prefer to work on the computer, so this is possible as well; others prefer to draw freehand to sketch in basic ideas; still others prefer to work precisely with graph paper while respecting relative sizes as closely as possible.

Using Shapes
Work with large curving or circular shapes to draw the eye along and create a sense of movement and continuity; use triangles of all sorts to create a sense of stability and balance. Feel free to move things around and modify the design as you work. Don’t forget to imagine the design in three dimensions, and note heights of plants and structures so you can plan for specific areas. Use a rectangle to represent the shed, for example, then imagine how it will look in the garden, so that you can plan what to place next to or around it so that it will be accessible and integrated into the overall design for the garden.

The Outdoor Room
Several popular design shows highlight how the garden can really be seen as an extra outdoor room that extends from the house into the adjacent outdoor space. As with other multipurpose rooms in the house, various areas of the garden may contain particular objects and serve particular functions—much like one large open room may feature a desk and study area, a sitting area, and a place for storage. Some things to consider when thinking of the garden as an outdoor room include: creating a porch or shaded sitting area for relaxing or entertaining; delegating a space for outdoor cooking, and/or a fire pit area for warmth, ambiance, or grilling; water sources for relaxation and leisure, including ponds, fountains, bird baths, areas with flowing water over rockbed, and a pool or pools. If you have children or regularly have families with young children who visit, consider a kids play area, including a grassy area to play, seating or picnic table, small swing set or games, and a sand or water table, with shade.

If you are particularly drawn to formal garden designs, by all means focus on your annual and perennial beds, as well as shrubs for hedges or mass planting, trees (fruit trees are nice, so check what grows well in your area), and container gardening. Create formal pathways and screen off some areas of the garden to create distinct spaces--each can have its own focus (herb garden, secret "retreat" space, rose garden, and so on).

After-Dinner Gardening (2)

Growing Pomegranates from Seed

Although pomegranates can be messy to get into, they are quite a bit of fun to eat. Our children love the peel away the pith and remove the seeds, which can be eaten or else spit out once the juicy arils have been removed (these being the tasty part). The first time I tried pomegranate was in elementary school, where one of my classmates would bring one to school to share while they were in season and available at the local A & P.

Instead of cutting straight through the middle of a pomegranate to access the seeds, it is best to make a small cut near the bottom of the fruit, otherwise known as the calyx end (where the brown tuft is), and then to use your fingers to pry open the various sections inside the fruit, eating or removing the seeds as you go. We love pomegranate as a snack--although make sure you that no one wears their best clothes, particularly if they are white. On occasion, we also like to remove the seeds and eat them in salads. The crunch and delicate flavour, as well as the colour, make this one of our favourite additions to a chef’s salad or a plate of baby spinach.

Throughout the years, I have tried growing pomegranates several times, with varying degrees of success. One of the best ideas from Langer’s book is to grow them in groups, so that each long thin stem becomes part of a larger grouping that resembles a healthy shrub. In their natural conditions in the desert, pomegranates can grow to be large bushes or small trees, although in the indoor environment you provide for them, they will most likely turn out to be small shrubs.

Keep the leaves dry, and keep pomegranates away from areas that are home to many other plants, since these areas will be more humid—and pomegranates prefer dry conditions. Along with the potting mix, you might also add some sand to replicate the desert conditions that pomegranates prefer. One thing we have often overlooked is the need to fertilize regularly. Although we have kept our pomegranates in a very sunny location, we have also on occasion (thinking they were desert plants) let them dry out too much. You can tell you have been doing this if the leaves look dry and start to curl--the plant may even drop some of its leaves. Usually you will be able to coax the pomegranate plant back into health, as we have been able to do. We also try to label each pot, so that we know if the seeds have come from a special holiday meal. This adds to the fun for us, as well.

After Dinner Gardening

One book that I flip through time and again is The After-Dinner Gardening Book by Richard W. Langer. It is witty and entertaining—both a guide and a series of anecdotes about growing plants from fruits and vegetables bought at the grocer’s or supermarket. The author describes his battles and triumphs growing all manner of things, from pineapples to litchis, papaya plants to coconuts. He usually starts with the seeds (sometimes the roots or the top of the plant, as with pineapples), and then takes us along on his journey discovering the conditions, planting techniques, history and uses of each plant.

When I was growing up, my father often had avocado pits stuck with toothpicks and balanced precariously over small jars of murky water, although I cannot actually remember any avocado plants that thrived after being started this way. I can also remember growing apples and oranges from seeds in the upstairs study, in labelled pots, and then tracking the unfurling of leaves and the plants’ growth for a school science experiment. The love of growing plants from seeds that would otherwise be tossed into the trash or compost bin is something I have never outgrown.

Avocados

Like the author, I had thought that the best way to grow avocado plants was to take the pit, skewer it with a toothpick on either side, and then suspend it over a jar of water. I learned the hard way that the tendency is for the water to sour, meaning that the pit would have to be thrown out. The better way to do things is to use a potting mix, and plant the pit directly in the pot. Be sure to leave a few centimetres of pit uncovered right at the top, since sunlight will help the process along. Many people give up on their avocado pits well before they should. Keep watering regularly and hoping for the best, since it may take several months for the roots to emerge and the pit to split so that the stem can develop and emerge. Leaves will follow shortly.

Make sure that your avocado plant gets plenty of sun, and that you rotate the plant if it is further from a light source, since the stems will bend towards the light and grow crookedly if you are not careful. The good news is that after all that waiting, avocados develop rapidly once the stem and leaves begin to emerge. You will find that the plant grows upwards at an almost alarming rate—sometimes, with several sets of new leaves emerging since the last time you checked. Prune some of these back if you want to encourage fuller growth and a bushier plant.

Langer suggests letting some avocado plants shoot upwards, and repeatedly pruning others, to fit particular locations in your home. He does caution you, though, to make sure you have a series of large pots on hand, and even a sturdy stand, since avocados outgrow their pots at an alarming rate, so that you may soon find yourself with a plant so tall (and a pot so heavy) you barely know what to do with it. Make sure you let the pit sit out for a day or two before planting it, so that the thin layer around the pit can dry and be peeled away. I have kept some of the avocado plants I have grown, and have given away dozens as gifts—some even to people I have lost track of, now. I would love to know how some of my first plants are doing—they may well be ten or fifteen years old by now, and I would love to know what they look like!

Ornamental Grasses

The ornamental grasses that you will be able to grow will depend on the specific conditions in your area. Check the hardiness rating for your area if you plan on planting perennial grasses.

Ornamental grasses add texture and interest to the garden as accents and as part of both formal and informal designs. Taller grasses and bamboo can be planted near the back of a garden bed; some decorative grasses feature plumes that are truly spectacular—these can be placed strategically in the garden to draw attention (or even to divert attention from some feature you want to minimize).

Grasses come in a great range of varieties, shapes and sizes. Some flower earlier in the season; others in the fall. Make sure you read up on specific grasses you have purchased, since some species are invasive, and may spread throughout the bed or further in the garden or neighbouring region if roots are not contained. Clumping grasses, on the other hand, grow in tufts, and will not be a problem. Also read up or inquire about whether the grasses are sterile or will self-seed.

When planting, many varieties do best in spring; a handfull of others do best when planted in the early fall. After several seasons of growth, it is important to cut the grasses back to encourage continued growth—some grasses can be cut back once or even several times a season.

One of the prettiest uses of ornamental grasses I have seen was in a bed created near a small bridge and pond that a bride’s parents had prepared just for the photo session on the day of their daughter’s fall wedding. Particularly when the sun catches the plumes at a specific angle in the late afternoon, ornamental grasses can be beautiful and distinctive features in a garden.

Several popular and distinctive ornamental grasses include:

Carex (sedge or blue grass)-- a versatile perennial that can be grown near water.
Avena candida—coarse blue grass that grows in clumps. Relatives of ours in Scotland have named their cottage “Avena” to honour the abundance of this grass in the area where they live.
Fountain grass—this can be dried and used in wreaths or other projects.
Feather grass—features distinctive plumes.
Little bluestem—greenish blue in colour, and quite flexible about growing conditions.

Some Favourite Edible Flowers

Chives and other species of allium—the flowers are a light to dark mauve. The intensity of the flavour depends very much on whether the flower blossoms are taken from chives, leeks, onion, or garlic. We often use these in salads, since the texture and colour looks so nice against the greens--and for the novelty of using the full flower blossoms on the plate.

Marigold—also known as calendula. We use calendula products regularly, particularly in soaps and body lotions. Slightly peppery, and with a golden yellow or orange hue much like saffron, calendula makes a great addition to soups, salads, butters and sauces.

Lavender—as with calendula, we use lavender around the house: in cooking, infused in teas, in desserts, and bought as potpourri sachets, shampoos, body lotions, and soaps. Lavender and chocolate make a great combination—we have a local store specializing in lavender that is grown in our area, and we often purchase their quality chocolate bars speckled with lavender to use in gift baskets or as a small thank-you for friends or family members. You can make a range of chocolate and lavender desserts--try combinations with fruit such as blueberries, as well. Lavender also lends itself well to savoury dishes and stews, and can makes a very nice garnish for chocolate cakes, cheese cakes, and other chilled desserts.

Dill—since the seeds are used commonly in cooking and baking, it is not surprising that the flowers are edible. Use as you would fresh chopped dill, in sauces and dips. The taste is quite strong, so use in moderation until you get more familiar with it.

Lilac—we absolutely adore the scent of lilac, and have planted several around our house. Lilac blossoms add a delicate flavour to salads, and we enjoy this in spring when the first flowers are finally out.



Pansy and Violet—the petals can be candied to use as decorations on cakes and pastries, ice cream and sorbets. The petals can also be used on salads or in jellies, and can be added to ice cold drinks as a fun and pretty finishing touch. Violet leaves can also be eaten in salads.

Roses—again, one of our favourite flowering plants, and something that we use as often as we can around the house, in various forms. Remove the white part of the petal before using as a garnish or adding to a dish. Petals can be crystallized and candied, frozen in ice cube trays, or used fresh or candied as garnish on desserts.

More Planting Tips for the Beginner

Do a quick analysis of your soil before planting so that you can make sure you choose plants that are appropriate to your soil conditions—or so that you can improve the soil before you plant. One easy test is simply to take some soil in your fingers—if it is crumbly and does not hold its shape, then you likely have more sandy soil; clay soil will hold its shape better. You can also add soil to a jar and add water, shake, and leave the mixture overnight--you should get an idea of the proportions by looking at the layers that are formed as everything settles.

If you have earthworms, that is great news—they love soil rich in organic matter, and are a good sign in any garden. Adding material such as compost and manure will be good for the soil as well. The acidity and alkalinity of your soil will also impact the plants in your garden, as some plants thrive in more acidic or more alkaline environment, although this is not usually something the beginner needs to worry about.

Once you have your plants arranged as you have planned (or as you spontaneously place them), gently turn a pot over and tap the bottom of the pot to loosen the roots. If you buy your flats or pots early enough in the season, you should be able to gently tap the back of the container and loosen the potting mixture to release the roots, so that the plants slip out easily, with root ball intact. On the other hand, if you wait until late in the season (when plants are on sale, and the selection limited) roots will have had the time to mature and even become overgrown and tangled (root-bound) inside their containers, so you may have to work at this stage gently and persistently to avoid damaging the stem or tearing the roots.

As you tip the pot, keep one hand over the surface of the planting material, bracing the plant so that it does not fall out and so that you do not dislodge the planting material from the roots more than necessary. For stubborn plants, you can move from tapping to hitting the bottom of the pot, or gently prod at the roots via the drainage holes to try and begin to loosen things up.

Make sure that you dig a hold as deep as the rootball, and quite wide (about one and a half to two times as wide as the rootball). Once the plant is in, this space will be filled in with loose soil (mixed with organic matter if you like), and this loosened soil will give the roots an ideal place to expand and grow without damage to the root tips. Be very careful with the roots, since they are fragile—they will need to be gently scratched if they have been root-bound to the pot. Make sure that the top of the soil around the pot is level with the surrounding soil, then pack in soil around the plant. Water extremely well, and make sure that you have packed the earth in enough around the plant that it is stable and standing up horizontally at the angle that you want. If your plant needs it, add a stake. Make sure that you check regularly and water well in the first few weeks, as your seedlings or new plants become established. Don’t be alarmed if plants show signs of shock for the first few days—good soil conditions, plenty of watering, and appropriate planting times will all help the transition. Do not be overly enthusiastic with fertilizer either, at the very beginning—give your plants a chance to settle in; some beginning gardeners are overly enthusiastic with fertilizer and can do more harm than good, particularly to young plants. Make sure to do most of your planting in the spring and early fall when conditions are cooler. Some climates make year-round (or nearly year-round) gardening possible, so be thankful if this is the case for you. Never plant in the middle of the day in the height of summer—plants generally will not adjust well, and the generous watering may result in leaves being damaged by water evaporating off the leaves in the hot sun.

Planting Tips for the Beginner

Once the soil has been prepared and your plants have been chosen or reached the point where they can be transferred from flats of seedlings to garden beds, there are a few things to keep in mind as you get prepare to actually get the plants into the ground.

First, consider the conditions the plant will need, and the height and width the plant will achieve once it is mature. When we first started gardening, we went out and enthusiastically planted lilacs in the front and back yard, liking the look of the compact two and a half or so feet of greenery, as well as the profusion of delicately scented flowers. Within a few years, however, the shape and size of the lilac will be considerably different. Take this into consideration when planting trees (since they will add shade and potentially block views), as well as shrubs—even when planting perennials as well, since the taller plants may need staking or add shade which will influence what can be planted directly next to them.

Another thing to consider is the accessibility of the beds, as well as the areas within the beds where you have chosen to place the plants. If you have a perennial border, you can space the plants out a fair bit. Planting the same thing in large numbers (“mass plantings”) means that you can create unity and a visual flow, and spend less time planning than you would on a more complex design, where design principles might need to be consulted more carefully. In either case, it is a good idea to think about colour combinations before you begin. Some people like to get out colour charts (such as you would find at an art store) and plan things visually ahead of time. Other gardeners prefer to work on instinct, laying things out as they go. Either way, make sure you place the plants where they will go, while still in their pots, so that you can get an idea of the overall effect before you begin to dig. Remember also that most plants can be moved later, if need be. If you need to shift things around, check first to make sure that the plant variety will be tolerant to the move. It is best to avoid hot summer days when you make these kinds of changes—begin in the spring, or else wait until the fall for this kind of work, and make sure to water generously.